This is what I heard from the shop today...

"leakdown test showed 10% leakage in all cylinders. That's acceptable. # 1 cly. was smoking when I pulled the plug out. So I think cly. 1 is the problem, just don't know why yet. Sorry about the delay, I Stayed over to finish the test and when I got home. my internet is down."

 

Today the shop I have the car told me that there is oil in all 4 cylinders. This is because of one of two reasons...

1. The piston rings could have been installed upside down, not likely since the guy who built my block, has built many before, and there has been no problems previously. But like humans are... Mistakes could have occurred.

2. The built head I bought. After buying the head, then the guy tells me there is more to the head that what I was told previously. I was told this head was the first head the guy has ever done. He got online as read a write up on how to build a head.

He first took the head and heated it up in an oven at 300* for 15-20 mins. He also froze the valve springs. He then removed the head and then began to install parts, such as the valve seals and guides. This also means that the guides and seals were not installed properly...

 

The valve guides are supposed to be installed with the head heated to 300 degrees while the guides are frozen.

The problem isn't in the head, it is in the bottom end. Your piston rings didn't seal for some reason (shitty honing job, incorrect gap, or improper break-in). 10% leakdown is hardly acceptable on a freshly built motor.

It sounds to me like the rings were washed out due to the excess fuel upon startup and never had a chance to properly seal. Regardless, the engine is going to have to be torn apart and rehoned and rerung to run properly.

 

^^^ I was afraid of this, but what must be done will be done.

 

Newest update from the shop...

"Yes Josh,
It looks like the head is causing problems. The upper intake pipe is dry as is the throttle body. The intake runners are wet, all 4 piston tops are wet and cyl. 1 and 3 the exhaust ports are even wet. I took the head off but do not have a spring compressor that will work on the Honda head. I can't see any seals on it at all. But it is not easy to see down inside the spring so don't take too much into that. I need to pull a spring and check the seals and see what kind of clearance we have on the guides. We'll see Monday.
If you got the other head, do you want to fix it or just fix this head. Let me know.
-John"

 

You can remove the valvesprings with a 12mm socket, extension, and a mallet. Just tap it lightly until the keepers pop off. You will need a valvespring compressor that mounts to the top of the head to reinstall them though. With some ingenuity and patients, you can make your own fairly easy with scrap metal, or materials from Home Depot.