Ive been looking at after market Stoker kits.
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/honda/b16ab18c.shtml

I have two questions?
1. Do I go the after market route or go with LS crank and ITR cam shafts??
2. Can I get 170-190lbs or higher torque out of a stoker?

This will be a daily driver (road track, just a few times during the summer).

http://www.hallettracing.net/

I know turbo are a cheaper way to go, but I like my N/A performance. And I'm a stubbron man.( have you ever seen the persons face after you beat their a@@ and you pop the hood, to show them, there is no turbo, NOS or super charger) It's priceless.

thanks,
shane c.

 

1. the ls crank is only a slightly bigger stroke than stock b18c. 89mm vs. 87.2mm
2. definitely possible but dependant on how big a stroke. you'd need a 95mm+

it really depends on how much power you want to make and how much money you want to spend. a big crank calls for custom rods and pistons and clearancing the block. which is not cheap.

if this is your daily driver, imo go no bigger than a 92mm stroke, especially if you intend to hit a road course. the bigger you go the more abuse your bearings take and you cant rev as high.

i was contemplating going with an 85x98 b18c1 setup myself, but for a daily driver it's probably going to be too much. so i scaled it back to 85x89, but havent ruled out a 92 or 95 crank.

 

I use to drive a 90' LS (Integra) never pushed her over 5500 RPM's. Never knew what I had till I lost my LS.

I was thinking about the 95 crank, 10.5 comp and EMS ECU...
What kind of torque could I get with 92 crank????????????????????????????????
There are some 350Z's and Teg's driving around here and they cant drive. Talk about tempting, LOL.

thanks,
shane c.

 

take into consideration that with a bigger crank and accomadating block work, you'll need to rework the head as well to make it all work together. bigger cams, port work, etc.

 

You'd be better off sleeving the block and boring it out, or going with a B20 block. You can achieve the same displacement and keep the revvability.

 

Sounds like, I'll just keep the GSR crank. Sleeve the block and bore it +.020.

I've also been thinking about using this EG for my daily driver (only) and getting a second EG for pure race (road track).

That being said;
What would y'all recommend?

OEM or After market:

Rods?
10.5 comp Pistons?
OEM barings, what about caps?
OEM headgasket and APR head studs?
Stainless steel valves?
Dual springs and titanium retainers?
Camshafts, OEM GSR or stage2 cams?
What about ECU and Hondata?

Or is this over kill?

I want a bullit proff motor, that can take some harsh punishment...

thanks,
shane c.

 

if you're sleeving you might as well go big with the bore. 84-85mm max. then go with forged rods and pistons. oem bearings etc,. what cams you get depends on your power goals.