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jerky acceleration

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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 12:57 AM
  #11  
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PoloBoy
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i think it's a vacuum leak to your manifold, maybe one of the intake manifold gaskets, maybe you should try just tightening the bolts to the manifold & plenium, um check all your hoses for cracks, any holes, and just push them onto the nipples as good as you can. Then I would check a vacuum hose diagram on your car just to make sure all your vacuum hoses are ran to the destinations they are supposed to be ran to. The only other thing I can think of would be to check your belts, make sure they are tight, but not too tight; on the pulleys. I have had a few different things cause a pulsating senstation while accelerating in my 94' prelude heres a couple that I have had.
1). Clutch starting to go (slipping of power type feeling)
2). Fuel injector leak (smell gas, not very much power, lots of vibration while accelerating)
3). Vacuum leak from vacuum hose leading from plenium to cruise control actuator (large power loss, idle was constantly changing, vacuum gauge wouldn't stay constant in hg. while accelerating it felt jerky or vibrant throughout the rpm's I traveled)
4). Loose power steering belt/ alternator belt (loss of high end power, fluctuating idle, fan came on often, ricey farty sound when flooring the gas, acceleration wasnt overwhelmingly awful but not steady throughout rpms.

start there, if those don't help keep posting, timing belt if it is missing a couple teeth or is old can start to skip and you will feel like your car has a huge miss in it, but as far as bleeding the clutch if anything your pedal should feel pretty stiff if it doesn't need to be bled, where as it should feel really soft if it does need to be bled, you could need a transmission flush or gear oil change, this is going to sound dumb to a lot of people but if your power steering reservoir is close to empty or is empty your car will run like shit and sound like it too. It could also be a clogged catalytic converter but if it is the only way to fix it is get a new one, if it is a clogged catalytic converter it will feel like you have absolutely close to no power. you could also try cleaning out your fuel filter, intake manifolds, air filter, fuel rail, injector spray tips, anything that carries fuel or air you can try to clean. let me know what you come up with goodluck!!
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 08:30 AM
  #12  
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mberndt
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Originally Posted by Sharpe
nothing new to report yet, i dont get out there much. as for the jerkieness it is pretty severe, like if someone was shaking you back and forth violently
Really? That bad huh?
I would have to agree that it sounds like an engine mount or transmission mount is either bad, broken, or missing, as this would cause shaking and shuddering as you describe it.
IMO I don't think a small vacuum leak could add enough air to cause major jerkiness. Sounds like it's mechanical in nature.

Check the Engine and tranny mounts, let us know the condition.
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 10:41 PM
  #13  
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Lol this will sound dumb as well but you could have a bent rim or even have uneven tightening of lugs, that causes some pretty powerful jerkyness but in all honesty probably not in your case if its intense jerkiness but who knows just thought I would throw that out there
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 01:03 AM
  #14  
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I have a 93 Accord SE and about a week ago my car started to do the "jerky" acceleration. It wasn’t bad at first, however as the week progressed it started getting worse. Note near the beginning of the week I took a road trip and coming back drained the fuel tank, almost to running out (45 miles with the fuel light on). Well during the week I noticed it getting worse, more "jerky" so I changed the Fuel filter which affected it in no way (filter was dirty). Also changed the spark plugs. Cleaned the intake with some intake cleaner spray as well. Still having the problem I put in some Lucus injector cleaner. Around 2 days later the jerky problem was getting very bad, unable to drive, it also stalled for the first time because of the problem (note the jerkiness was only happening up to around 30 mph). So one day I was driving it down the freeway and it was HORRIBLE jerky at any speed so I pulled off and when I got to the spot light it dies. I tried to restart is and it kicks over but stalls right away. I can’t start it and have to pull it home where it sits now. Now is wont even kick over but the electrical doesn’t seem to be the prob. I am think fuel?? Any ideas , kind of sounded like the same problem but worse.

Also there was an erratic idle....900 rpm to 1600 rpm up and down. It would only do this every now and then. Started after I changed the fuel filter.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 09:03 PM
  #15  
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Default Jerky acceleration.

For Daddy Spice.

Your acceleration problem and final engine failure maybe pretty straight forward.

If you did not run out gas then it is unlikely that you have air in your fuel line or fuel injectors. At worst, you might have a little dirt in your fuel line, but that would not cause jerky acceleration or for the engine to "hunt".

Check your idle control valve, ICV. The ICV automatically regulates intake air flow through a controlled by-pass. Most commonly the valve is actuated by vacuum and also by a temperature sensor. Less commonly, a servo motor is used. Both are controlled by the onboard computer.

Quite often the vacuum hoses are either perished and leak, or are blocked with oil and dirt. By the time you notice the symptoms, the blockage is almost complete and the progression from mild to severe can happen quite rapidly. Also the valve itself can become sticky or stuck. Sometimes the temperature sensor can fail.

Before removing the ICV, I would recommend checking all the connecting hoses first. If they are not blocked or cracked and leaky, then you may need to remove the valve to check the temperature sensor and the free movement of the valve itself. (Make sure you have a new replacement gasket.) With the ICV at normal opperating temperature and removed from the engine, when you blow through one pipe, you should not be able to blow any air through the valve. Remove the valve cover plate to check that the valve moves freely as you cool the body of the ICV down. When it has cooled right down, try blowing through it again. This time, air should pass through freely.

If the valve has stuck or is sticky and air is not passing through or is restricted, then soak the valve assembly with carbuerettor cleaning fluid until it moves freely.

If you find no fault, then it is possible that the onboard computer is defective. Unfortunate and expensive!

A defective ICV system does not usually lead to total engine failure. However you did mention that you had replaced the fuel filter and therefore you may have accidently let air into the fuel line and may need to bleed the line or the injectors.

Good luck. I hope this works for you.

Ricki.

PS: Before throwing away your onboard computer, you may also want to check your O2 sensor. The O2 sensor can also cause jerky acceleration, although I am not sure whether it will cause the engine to "hunt". (Ranging RPMs at idle)

Last edited by Ricki; Sep 9, 2006 at 03:49 PM.
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