I just bought a 6th gen civic coupe and this is my plan........ I think it will hold me over for now.

 

A good b20vtec setup will cost you more than $2500. Building a frankenstein motor the cheap route will only lead to it blowing not too far down the road. I priced it out, and to have a built block with stock head was going to cost around $3k for everything needed, minus tranny because I was going to use my LS tranny for the time being.

 

i was talking about using a stock block. the stock b20 bottom end is extreamly tough. the one in our race car has with stood 30000 miles of hell and is soon to be a H1 honda challenge compeditor. after several misshifts that resulted in broken flywheels and crank pullys falling off the bottom end is still perfect. no metal in the oil no extra noises.... nuthing

 

The problem with the stock block is once you get around 8k rpm, and higher. It wasn't designed to rev that high, and thats when people have problems. VTEC motors live in high rpms, and that is where the LS/B20 block fails.

 

i mean we beat the **** out of our b20/vtec reving to 8200 everyday. there is one guy that road races with us. his stock bottom b20/vtec has over 25k miles on it.

its a honda, they are all made of basicly the same stuff

 

Umm actually the LS/CRV and B18C blocks are VERY different. There are reasons the b18c can safely rev higher than an LS stock.

 

correct me if im wrong but the main difference is the girdle and the oil squirters... girdle is a easy fix and the squirters arent really necessacary. ??

 

Also the GSR rod bolts are much stronger, the LS bolts tend to stretch under the loads that 8k rpm create. Yes the girdle can be put on the LS, but you also need GSR main bolts, windage tray, oil pickup, and oilpan. And the oil squirters help cool/lubricate the wrist pin, which isn't a big deal but they help in a high rpm motor that creates lots of heat.

 

sure you dont want the all-mighty h22,it has power w/oem realiabilty...ill sell you the swap cheaper then an b18c or crvtec