96dc2gsr

ok i have a 96 gsr with a tanabe rm exh so far. and i am really commited to making it fast. i mean i want to build an all motor beast. my goal is to run low 14's, maybe even high 13's all motor full interior. can anyone estimate what amound of money i can expect to spend to make my car this quick? i live in cali and want to be able to pass smog also. is it possible to tune it to pass smog and extract alot of power? thanks.

mrmike

stage 2 crower cams, some ecu modification larger throttlebody, ported intake manifold and larger injectors with basic bolt ons should get u 14s easily. crower stage 2 cams have a stock primary option which will help with keeping it emissions legal. with weight reduction i wouldn't be surprised by high 13s

96dc2gsr

thanks for the reply....you in the sac area often? ever race at sac raceway? anyway...i was thinking skunk2 stage1 because they pass smog according to david hsu at skunk2 and dont require valvetain upgrade. i read it at team-integra.net what do u think? too mild? i hear crowers break easy compared to others. i read it in a post. don't remember which site, probably this one.

dubcac

If you wanna run low 14's/high 13's all motor, you're gonna need bigger cams than skunk stage 1's, and you're gonna need valvetrain so you can take advantage of the high end power the new cams produce. Skunk2 intake manifold would be a good idea to help out on the top end too....obd2-obd1 conversion harness, with a chipped obd1 ecu.

96dc2gsr

thanks dubster99, ok so whats the most extreme cam i can run while maintaining streetability? i really care about streetability. what if i stay with skunk stage 1's? what's the quickest i can run with these? yeah down the road i already plan for obd1 and skunk IM. hey mrmike when you say stage2 you mean the 402's right? what sort of wheel hp do i need to run 14's? around 200? ok thanks for the help.

taylormadem5

heres one of the best bang for the buck enging options...take the head of your GSR..put it on a B20z bottom end..rebuild it with forged pistons, rods, etc...this combination is good for 180-190whp..you can get a B20z long block for about $900.00...and rebuild it and have the mods needed to make the b20z work with the b18c head...just some minor mods...you can read about this swap at http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t48680.html
or www.crvtec.com
you cand get it all done for about 3k

dubcac

Or you could find a GSR block with a cracked sleeve for like $250, send it to golden eagle and have it resleeved to 84.5mm, making it about a 2 liter. Still retaining the stock crank and rods, crank girdle, and oil squirters.

96dc2gsr

ls/vtec? but i read an article at hondavision.com about how that hybrid motor isn't such a good idea after all. mentioning that if this motor was so good why didn't honda make it in the first place. also that if u do build one you shouldn't rev it so high. what you guys think?

More&Faster

well ya in my eyes, the ls/vtec is just for people with ls tegs, cause i cant see it being better than a b18c.

juiceweazel

well, it is better than the b18c in the sense that it has the extra displacement. i do wish that honda would have done that from the get-go for the gsr, then u would have the best of both worlds. the downside is that u can't rev as hi as the gsr bottom end stock. w/ the right balancing it would be possible to rev to 10 w/ out a problem