race project
#1
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Project: Fast A** Hatch
ok, i'm looking into getting a race car honda. now dont flame me, i know that hondasarent made to be racecars for the most part, but i was wondering what would be the best choice for me to make. i want a rally fast car with a b-series or ls engine that is bored to 2 liters
b20/vtec
(b20b w/b18 head)
C-RVtec
(b20z w/b18 head)
beighteen
(b20b w/b16 head)
CRVtec
(b20z w/b16 head)b18 overbored to 84mm
ls overbored to 84mm w/vtec head
notice that this will be going in a CRX most likely. tho i might even think about a h22 civic combo, though unlikely (more likely now to do a h23 with boost)
b20/vtec
(b20b w/b18 head)
C-RVtec
(b20z w/b18 head)
beighteen
(b20b w/b16 head)
CRVtec
(b20z w/b16 head)b18 overbored to 84mm
ls overbored to 84mm w/vtec head
notice that this will be going in a CRX most likely. tho i might even think about a h22 civic combo, though unlikely (more likely now to do a h23 with boost)
Last edited by DRfrank; 12-04-2004 at 04:32 PM. Reason: Type of project changed over time.. needs new title
#4
get a GSR block get it sleeved and bored to 84.5mm and you have a 2 liter with oil squirters(non Vtec bottom ends don't have them)
edit: are we talking a streetable car or a hot rod class car?
edit: are we talking a streetable car or a hot rod class car?
#5
if u are looking for a car to put it in ive got a prelude rolling chassis----1995 fs for $600 pm me if ur interested----do a h23 block w/ sleeves and forged internals bored over and put an h22 head thats been ported.... and milled down on then boost it in a lude body w/ tube chassis
#6
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it's gunna be in a crx with roll cage.
if at all possible a street legal car would be prefered.
for that it would mean me having to just overbore a b18 and put it in the car, right?
(i think the laws are that you can put a higher obd in a car, but not a lower one, correct?)
now presuming that i can pass smog it should ceck out ok, correct?
if at all possible a street legal car would be prefered.
for that it would mean me having to just overbore a b18 and put it in the car, right?
(i think the laws are that you can put a higher obd in a car, but not a lower one, correct?)
now presuming that i can pass smog it should ceck out ok, correct?
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Originally Posted by DRfrank
it's gunna be in a crx with roll cage.
if at all possible a street legal car would be prefered.
for that it would mean me having to just overbore a b18 and put it in the car, right?
(i think the laws are that you can put a higher obd in a car, but not a lower one, correct?)
now presuming that i can pass smog it should ceck out ok, correct?
if at all possible a street legal car would be prefered.
for that it would mean me having to just overbore a b18 and put it in the car, right?
(i think the laws are that you can put a higher obd in a car, but not a lower one, correct?)
now presuming that i can pass smog it should ceck out ok, correct?
You are correct about the higher OBD.
It should be OK.
#9
all motor I would go 86mm bore on a sleeved B18C. also smog is goin to be tough and a CRX is a very tight engine bay....I would look for a 92-95 hatch and make your life easy. mid 11 second daily driver turbos are not unheard of on the east coast and I believe their are a few on the west as well. if you are goin turbo and a street car I wouldn't go over 9.5:1....a good engine builder told me straight up that compression has nothin to do with turbo spool
#10
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i might not even go boosted, i was just asking whats the highest comp ratio befor a 84mm bored b18 would start to see problems (high compression also menas more force on cylinder walls)
if i could find 84mm bore pistons at 12:1 compression it would mean that i could have a b"20"c with i'm guessing 200 whp and around 145 ft/lbs of torque and it wouldnt be a tax on the engine bay.
the crx is tight, but it's also alot lighter when stripped than a stripped hatch (tho this also means that i can have it be nearly the same weight as a stripped hatch with few essentials for those long drives to the track... ie radio)
the crx also has a much smaller coeff of drag (.25 i think)
i believe the hatch has a low coef, but not nearly as low as .25
I figure this crx built with 12:1 comp pistons and utned correctly with a nice Topend job will only cost me around 8 grand for everything minus install (1 grand topend job, 3 grand rebuild and boreing, 2-4 grand endinge, and i can find a crx for a few hundred if not below 2k)
if i could find 84mm bore pistons at 12:1 compression it would mean that i could have a b"20"c with i'm guessing 200 whp and around 145 ft/lbs of torque and it wouldnt be a tax on the engine bay.
the crx is tight, but it's also alot lighter when stripped than a stripped hatch (tho this also means that i can have it be nearly the same weight as a stripped hatch with few essentials for those long drives to the track... ie radio)
the crx also has a much smaller coeff of drag (.25 i think)
i believe the hatch has a low coef, but not nearly as low as .25
I figure this crx built with 12:1 comp pistons and utned correctly with a nice Topend job will only cost me around 8 grand for everything minus install (1 grand topend job, 3 grand rebuild and boreing, 2-4 grand endinge, and i can find a crx for a few hundred if not below 2k)