Seals.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 8
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From: Greenville, SC
Seals.
Ok, I have a 95 Civic EX Sedan, 1.6L, will find the engine code later today.
Anyhow, how hard is it to replace the front and rear main seals? I know I'll have to remove the exhaust manifold and oil pan. The car has 140k miles on it, and I had the timing belt, other belts and water pump replaced at 90k, and the receipt says they replaced the front main seal.
The problem I have is a small oil leak, and when I investigated, I discovered oil on both ends of the pan. I was told it COULD be just a loose oil pan, but being in networking, when I see a problem, I ALWAYS expect the worse, and that's what I usually get....the worse.
Anyway, nice site here, lots of good information.
Anyhow, how hard is it to replace the front and rear main seals? I know I'll have to remove the exhaust manifold and oil pan. The car has 140k miles on it, and I had the timing belt, other belts and water pump replaced at 90k, and the receipt says they replaced the front main seal.
The problem I have is a small oil leak, and when I investigated, I discovered oil on both ends of the pan. I was told it COULD be just a loose oil pan, but being in networking, when I see a problem, I ALWAYS expect the worse, and that's what I usually get....the worse.
Anyway, nice site here, lots of good information.
GWAKS- Tech Geekifier
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,109
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From: Hampton, VA
To replace the front seal you have to remove all the crank pullies, timing belt, etc, just to get to it.
To replace the rear seal, you have to removed the oil pan, transmission, clutch, and flywheel to get to it. Changing the seals themselves isn't difficult, getting to them is what makes it a royal pain.
As for the oil pan, distortion caused by over-tightening can also cause a leak, so resist the urge to wrench down on the nuts unless they're just way too loose. If you're going to replace the main seals, I would highly suggest replacing the oil pan gasket at the same time, as well as making sure the gasket surface of the pan is flat. You can knock down high spots by supporting the pan on a work bench and tapping with a flat hammer.
To replace the rear seal, you have to removed the oil pan, transmission, clutch, and flywheel to get to it. Changing the seals themselves isn't difficult, getting to them is what makes it a royal pain.
As for the oil pan, distortion caused by over-tightening can also cause a leak, so resist the urge to wrench down on the nuts unless they're just way too loose. If you're going to replace the main seals, I would highly suggest replacing the oil pan gasket at the same time, as well as making sure the gasket surface of the pan is flat. You can knock down high spots by supporting the pan on a work bench and tapping with a flat hammer.
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AIM: NDcissive
CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
-Harry
AIM: NDcissive
CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 8
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From: Greenville, SC
Originally posted by 1stGenCRXer
To replace the front seal you have to remove all the crank pullies, timing belt, etc, just to get to it.
To replace the rear seal, you have to removed the oil pan, transmission, clutch, and flywheel to get to it. Changing the seals themselves isn't difficult, getting to them is what makes it a royal pain.
To replace the front seal you have to remove all the crank pullies, timing belt, etc, just to get to it.
To replace the rear seal, you have to removed the oil pan, transmission, clutch, and flywheel to get to it. Changing the seals themselves isn't difficult, getting to them is what makes it a royal pain.
Le Grand Illusion
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,180
Likes: 0
From: Damascus, MD
This is way out there, but if --both-- seals are gone, it may be more cost effective to simply replace the engine... the labor on both jobs would be close to a $1000 in my area. A D16 is much less.