Help! I've been owned. . . thrice!
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Little Rock, AR
Originally Posted by senseiturtle
As far as launching.... Optimal brake-torquing is as follows:
1-Put the car in Neutral.
2-Rev to 3-4k RPM, and jam HARD on the brake at the same time. You'll find that the brake will grab "harder" when engine rpm's are high, since the fluid pressure is allowed to build up. The pedal should sink an extra inch or two... you'll notice it.
3-Now you're at the strongest braking power possible.
4-Put it in drive, without letting off the brake.
5-Rev the engine to the appropriate launching Rev's.
6- Release the brake and floor it at "GO".
1-Put the car in Neutral.
2-Rev to 3-4k RPM, and jam HARD on the brake at the same time. You'll find that the brake will grab "harder" when engine rpm's are high, since the fluid pressure is allowed to build up. The pedal should sink an extra inch or two... you'll notice it.
3-Now you're at the strongest braking power possible.
4-Put it in drive, without letting off the brake.
5-Rev the engine to the appropriate launching Rev's.
6- Release the brake and floor it at "GO".
Anyways, on step 2, as I'm in N and revving to 3-4K. When I push the break down, it'll go down further than just normal braking at idle?
Also, on step 3, when I'm at the "strongest breaking power possible" and I put it in drive, am I revving the engine still? Or do I not rerev the engine to between 3-4K until I'm in D3 with the brake still pressed from when I was in N?
In short (this is how I caught it)
1. Line up
2. In Neutral, rev engine to 3-4K, press break as hard as possible while revving
3. (While brake depressed) Drop to D3, match revs from power braking
4. When flagged, release the brake and hope your automatic can pull something out of the air?
Originally Posted by kenton
Before I start this post, I wanted to say I did see the part about breaking the stock torque converter. Would you say that only doing this once in a while, or as much as once a weekend would cause it to die?
Originally Posted by kenton
Anyways, on step 2, as I'm in N and revving to 3-4K. When I push the break down, it'll go down further than just normal braking at idle?
Originally Posted by kenton
Also, on step 3, when I'm at the "strongest breaking power possible" and I put it in drive, am I revving the engine still? Or do I not rerev the engine to between 3-4K until I'm in D3 with the brake still pressed from when I was in N?
you MUST be at idle rpm's when shifting from N->D . Yes, you re-rev while in D. If you go from N->D while giving it gas, you will break it. That's called a neutral-drop, and let me say it again... YOU WILL BREAK SOMETHING.
Practice to find that key RPM. You want the tires to sqeak a little, and have the engine to not bog down and pull itself up and out.
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Change sig? Lose [quote]!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,414
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From: Little Rock, AR
Originally Posted by senseiturtle
All depends. You're adding un-needed stress. It could work great 1000 times, and break on the 1001st. Or, it could break the first time you do it.
Yes. Increased fluid pressure allows harder clamping. You will feel the pedal depress farther.
Do the thing in neutral, and HOLD the pedal down in that "deeper" position with your left foot. Put in Drive. Rev the engine up to your chosen starting RPM. Wait for signal. Release the brake, and floor it.
you MUST be at idle rpm's when shifting from N->D . Yes, you re-rev while in D. If you go from N->D while giving it gas, you will break it. That's called a neutral-drop, and let me say it again... YOU WILL BREAK SOMETHING.
Practice to find that key RPM. You want the tires to sqeak a little, and have the engine to not bog down and pull itself up and out.
Yes. Increased fluid pressure allows harder clamping. You will feel the pedal depress farther.
Do the thing in neutral, and HOLD the pedal down in that "deeper" position with your left foot. Put in Drive. Rev the engine up to your chosen starting RPM. Wait for signal. Release the brake, and floor it.
you MUST be at idle rpm's when shifting from N->D . Yes, you re-rev while in D. If you go from N->D while giving it gas, you will break it. That's called a neutral-drop, and let me say it again... YOU WILL BREAK SOMETHING.
Practice to find that key RPM. You want the tires to sqeak a little, and have the engine to not bog down and pull itself up and out.
I tore him a new asshole off the line, I'm serious. The last time we raced he DESTROYED me. Anyhow, I was trying a new style of shifting tonight and decided to leave it in D3 and just floor it. Anyhow, I FORGOT I was in D3, shifted to 4th thinking it was 2nd, then shifted to NEUTRAL thinking it was 3rd so I hit my REV LIMITER (horrible noise and the car refuses to go) and once I realized what I had done he was already pulling on me and BARELY GOT ME BY A NOSE. I swear, if I wouldn't have ****ed up shifting, it would've been over. I really figured out tonight how to launch an automatic though, and in the future, I'm just going to shift manually so I don't **** up and forget what gear I'm in.
I know, I know. I messed up BAD by hitting my rev limiter. I think it bounced twice before I was able to get it back in a drivable gear. Anyhow, I did A LOT better (albiet was hard on my car), but it's all a learning experience. And hey, if the transmission goes out for some reason in the future, it's all the more reason for a 5spd swap.
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