Best engine?
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Joined: Feb 2005
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right now i have the stock motor out of a 91 CRX base model if i got the JDM D15B Vtec how much performance would i notice? and also will the transimission i have in my crx work with the JDM D15B Vtec engine? and would that engine just drop in without me converting anything or rigging anything?
2 tone Rex
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 755
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From: Alexandria, LA
Performance would be a large increase... From 92HP (in the base model CRX's D15B2) to 130HP... I cant say first hand tho, my swap isnt installed yet... 
But u should notice a large difference... Your stock tranny will work, but its not reccomended, it will hurt performance... The CRX Si tranny is the best option for performance... You will have to change from preOBD to OBD1, or u could use your stock ECU and intake manifold, and find some way to activate VTEC... But this is not reccomended... If u do it, do it right and go OBD1...
When my swap is all said and done, from the top of my head heres my prices (estimates only):
Engine: $615 shipped
ECU (P28): $130 shipped
4 wire O2 sensor (the stock D15B has 1 wire, P28 calls for a 4 wire): $80
Clutch kit: $90
preOBD to OBD1 harnesses (from Rywire.com): $190
Timing belt, water pump, tensioner: $130
NGK plug wires: $45
Cap and rotor: $20
Oil cap (mine didnt come with one): $18
MAP sensor: $45
Honda bond liquid gasket: $12
Im sure theres more... But as u can see, a swap gets expensive... I still need to have my flywheel resurfaced once I take it off, and buy a few more smaller peices and hoses... So about $100 more for that stuff...
So total: Roughly $1457
Total swap is still less than the B16A1 with just tranny, ECU, and long block... As they average $1500... And I could have saved a few bucks, but I wanted to do this right... So I spent the money on it...
But u should notice a large difference... Your stock tranny will work, but its not reccomended, it will hurt performance... The CRX Si tranny is the best option for performance... You will have to change from preOBD to OBD1, or u could use your stock ECU and intake manifold, and find some way to activate VTEC... But this is not reccomended... If u do it, do it right and go OBD1... When my swap is all said and done, from the top of my head heres my prices (estimates only):
Engine: $615 shipped
ECU (P28): $130 shipped
4 wire O2 sensor (the stock D15B has 1 wire, P28 calls for a 4 wire): $80
Clutch kit: $90
preOBD to OBD1 harnesses (from Rywire.com): $190
Timing belt, water pump, tensioner: $130
NGK plug wires: $45
Cap and rotor: $20
Oil cap (mine didnt come with one): $18
MAP sensor: $45
Honda bond liquid gasket: $12
Im sure theres more... But as u can see, a swap gets expensive... I still need to have my flywheel resurfaced once I take it off, and buy a few more smaller peices and hoses... So about $100 more for that stuff...
So total: Roughly $1457
Total swap is still less than the B16A1 with just tranny, ECU, and long block... As they average $1500... And I could have saved a few bucks, but I wanted to do this right... So I spent the money on it...
Civilian
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,407
Likes: 1
From: Miami Beach. FL
Originally Posted by Exempt
Every one has a B series now of days... Fact is, a SOHC VTEC engine in a light weight EF makes for a damn good swap... And even more so with turbo... And I would like to see the look on ppls face when u smoke them with a D series... Sure they have an advantage... But thats what makes it so much fun... Ppl think they can swap a B in their car and they will be the fastest on the planet... Its not even about the engine most of the time, but the driver... If u have a B series and cant drive it, chances are a stock ass D will walk all over you...
2 tone Rex
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 755
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, LA
Originally Posted by Skinflute22
what about the JDM DOHC ZC 1.6L would that be a direct bolt in replacement i'm tryin to just be able to bolt in a new engine and not worry about changin the ecu and stuff
Basically, yea... No mounts required, little wiring (the cylinder position sensor needs to be relocated from inside the distributor to the end of the exhaust cam, and youll need to replace the round plug on the dizzy with the square one from the ZC harness)... You can run the stock Si ECU (PM6), but its best to run the PM7 from the ZC, or atleast an Integra PG7 ECU with it... And your hood might rub on the timing belt cover... Ofcourse if u have a DX you will have to wire MPFI as well, which is a big task...
2 tone Rex
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 755
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, LA
Originally Posted by Pete
I'm not saying a B series will make you godlike. I'm just implying that you have much more potential with a B series motor than you do with a D series.
And the H has that much more potential than a B, and the K has that much more over the H... The list goes on and on... Theres always someone faster... In all actuallity, Honda in itself is the 'underdog' so to speak, when it comes to almost any racing competition... But thats part of the fun to building one... The look on ppls face when u beat the Honda bashers with one... The D is the 'underdog' Honda engine, so yes, it is at a disadvantage... But a D still has potential... Theres alot of D haters out there, but its a damn reliable engine, that has plenty of potential, specially for an EF... Will u beat a B18C5? Probably not... But itll be fun to try...
And with a Honda, building it up, and trying to win is the most fun... :thumbup:
Civilian
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,407
Likes: 1
From: Miami Beach. FL
I'm not saying that D series are unreliable. Mine had 154,000 miles on it before I swapped it out and it still had no major problems. Oh, not to mention that D15 snuff video where those guys used a bucket of water instead of oil and just revved the shit out of it. Even after it died it still started back up again. Just goes to show, killing a Honda motor is like trying to kill a cockroach.
2 tone Rex
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 755
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, LA
Originally Posted by Pete
I'm not saying that D series are unreliable. Mine had 154,000 miles on it before I swapped it out and it still had no major problems. Oh, not to mention that D15 snuff video where those guys used a bucket of water instead of oil and just revved the shit out of it. Even after it died it still started back up again. Just goes to show, killing a Honda motor is like trying to kill a cockroach.
Haha, yea that vid was funny as hell... Shows alot about the reliability of a Honda... After seeing that video, I dont feel so bad when I let my g/f run an extra few months on old oil... rofl :rofl:
Originally Posted by mistacee
There is no Zc vtec. Only d15b,which is not a Zc.
http://asia.vtec.net/topics/zc.html