Hey All,

I have an 89 CRX that is running really rough. Seems to be missing or something.

I changed out the plugs and plug wires and that helped some, but it still does not idle smooth nor do I get full power from it.

I am also concerned because when I pulled the plugs, 1 plug was missing the center electrode. I am hoping it did not score the cylinder wall or bend any valves.

I was thinking it might be timing, but I am not real sure. I was going to adjust the timing, but I cannot find the correct size wrench for the adjustment bolts. I tried a metric 12, but it is too big. 11 is too small. Tried standard 3/8, too small and 1/2 is too big. Am I missing something here?

Anyone have any thoughts on what I should check to get this thing running better?

Thanks,
Java

 

have you ever had a friend pull a plug wire on you while he pretended to check your oil at his work? well i have.if you car is idle poping and still runing you may just be using 3 of 4 cylinders

 

If there was a dead cylinder the engine would have a very rhythmic *thump* every time that cylinder discharged unburned air/fuel, and the entire car would have a rhythmic vibrating pulse. I had a dead cylinder when I first started my rebuilt engine that was due to a clogged injector.

Rough idling and loss of power can be so many things that its impossible to tell with what you've told us. Changing ignition components is a good idea.

You say a spark plug was broken...it is possible that you have a damaged valve or valve seat becuz that little piece got bounced around for a while. Best way to tell that is to have a shop run a leak-down test. They'll pressurize each cylinder and check for excessive air leakage, and they have ways of telling where it's coming from.

 

you can do a simple compression check as a starter instead of getting a leakdown...a comp check gauge costs $30 and you can do it yourself

 

Thanks for the replies all.

OK, so I have replaced the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. So far nothing has fixed it.

I noticed an occasional small backfire. Would a bent valve cause a backfire and the rough running? I am guess from your response that the rough running could certainly be a bent valve.

I was thinking it might be timing, but that darn missing electrode from the plug has me worried.

Also the check engine light occasionally comes on. I checked the LED under the carpet and it gives 10 quick flashes then pauses. I am looking for the error codes, anyone know what this might indicate?

Regards,
Java

 

do you have a lot of carbon built up on your exhaust tip?...with the car running have a friend give it some stops of the gas (don't have to go to redline) and look for puffs of black smoke...i'm starting to think you maybe running rich and have a bad o2 sensor

if you had a dead cylinder you'd have a rythmic shaking of the car

 

It is not smoking and I don't see anything unusual or build up (other than normal soot) on the tailpipe.

I just found the code and it says that the Intake Air Temperature sensor is bad. I can't imagine that causing the system to be rough.

Does that sound right to you guys?

By the way, it shakes when you put it in reverse, but once you start down the road, the shaking all but stops and just the missing continues.

 

Replace that sensor and go from there. If it fixes the problem, you're done. If not, well, back to square one.