Notices

I f'd up on front sway bar install.

Old Aug 9, 2003 | 01:14 PM
  #1  
MrChad's Avatar
MrChad
Thread Starter
THE RED 6th GEN Coupe
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
Default I f'd up on front sway bar install.

I F'd up trying to install my front sway bar.

I got the endlink bolts about halfway off and now they are stuck good. I can't even tighten them back down.

I called Honda and made and appointment for Friday.

I'm an idiot! Anyone else ever get the bolts stuck on the end links and had to take it in for new endlinks?

How bad did they rape you in price.
I'm hating myself right now.
Reply
Old Aug 9, 2003 | 01:54 PM
  #2  
MrChad's Avatar
MrChad
Thread Starter
THE RED 6th GEN Coupe
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
Default

Anyone know how you might get the sway bar end link out of the lower control arm?

The bolt holding the endlink into the control are is recessed.
How did honda in stall the nut?

You place an allen wrench into the end link threads to keep them from spinning and use a box wrench on the nut right?

What type of wrench did honda use to install the nut and keep the endlink shaft from spinning?
Reply
Old Aug 9, 2003 | 02:10 PM
  #3  
jschmid's Avatar
jschmid
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,049
Likes: 0
From: OH
Default

I dunno how to get the front endlink off...the rear is easy enough.

Can you take off the lower control arm to get better access to the endlink nut/allen hole in end of bolt?

Anyway, I'm looking at the manual, I'm sure you have too, and it just says to "remove the self locking nut from the stabilzer link". Doesn't say much else, but I can see in the pic that it's recessed, just can't tell how much room there is in there to get a wrench.

I'd keep trying, and only take it in as a last resort unless you know someone there that won't rape you on the labor.
Reply
Old Aug 9, 2003 | 04:01 PM
  #4  
b12uceHuy's Avatar
b12uceHuy
Jizz Maste12
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
From: DISNEYLAND!
Default

if you still under warrenty and you bought your car from there around $65.00 min for labor. If you are not under warrenty and you didnt buy the car from that dealer ship your looking at around $65.00 to take a look and another $65 for labor 1 hour.
Reply
Old Aug 9, 2003 | 06:59 PM
  #5  
92AccordCoupeLX's Avatar
92AccordCoupeLX
Member
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Default

not true, im having trouble finding my bill but it wasnt nearly that much when mine was done. It was around 100 bucks, about 50 for parts 45 for labor. you can get exact oem endlinks if you search around for like 7 bucks a set, i was so ****ing stupid to go through the dealer, its a pretty easy job but i lack time and the jacks to do it, search around or get some quotes
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2003 | 12:46 AM
  #6  
e3NiNe's Avatar
e3NiNe
#CustomUserTitle
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 63,855
Likes: 1
From: glass case of emotion
Default

damn ... that sucks. post pics if you can ... i'm just curious to see it.
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2003 | 06:25 PM
  #7  
MrChad's Avatar
MrChad
Thread Starter
THE RED 6th GEN Coupe
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
Default

The parts aren't the issue.

1. the upper part of the endlinks (like the rear) have jammed with the self locking nut about 1/2 off and it won't budge back on or off.

2. The lower part of the endlinks are recessed into the control arem and I have no clue how you would remove them. (No known wrench of mine or socket will fit.) My father and farther-in-law both assume a special unique tool I don't have is needed. This may be a very special honda tool.

Honda may be my only choice. I really need the car done by Friday night--Honda may be my only shot. It's worth a hundred or so to me at this point easy.

I'm still looking, going to call a suspension shop in town tommorow.

Don't say just work at it either my car is currently on the lift in my garage still--trust me I worked it.:naughty:
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2003 | 06:51 PM
  #8  
Bumnah's Avatar
Bumnah
So OG it hurts.
 
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 6,592
Likes: 0
From: VA
Default

why not disconnect the endlink fro mthe sway bar, and pull the lca off, slap it in a vice and try to get if off, or if all else fails dril the stud out and put a new one in, if it's worse than that. you can replace the lca, and put it in yourself. all costing much less than taking it to honda.
__________________
Project EVA - The Track Package
-----
Project EVA
-----
Reply
Old Aug 11, 2003 | 02:35 PM
  #9  
MrChad's Avatar
MrChad
Thread Starter
THE RED 6th GEN Coupe
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
Default

This issues are I can't disconnect the endlink nuts holding the sway bar on the endlink. About half way off they locked on tight and won't budge an inch on or off.

I thought about diegrinding them off but.....

2. If I could remove the endlinks from the control arm (I can't) How do I get them back on. (new ones) There is no known craftman tool made fitting the discription of a deep well socket wrench with a hole in the middle so you can place an allen wrench to hole in the endlink shaft from while spinning with the nut. You see the front endlink nuts are recessed into a well in the control arm. I assume honda has a tool for this but it is not listed in the service manual.

3. I'm hoping to take my car to a meet on saturday. (700 miles away.) Waiting for a tool to be made or mail ordered is not attractive at this point. I'm assuming none of you has ever tried to remove the sway endlinks on a sixth gen Accord in the front. They are more difficult to access then the rears. I changed the rears when I installed my 19m sway outback. This is what lead me to the conclusion I could swap out the front's too. I was severly incorrect in that assumption. I'm somewhat too discusted at this point to take pictures. But if you crawl under the sixth gen Accord and look at the bolt and allen keyed stud recessed in the control arm. You will see my quagmier.
Reply
Old Aug 12, 2003 | 02:11 AM
  #10  
Bumnah's Avatar
Bumnah
So OG it hurts.
 
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 6,592
Likes: 0
From: VA
Default

go get some pb blaster it's good at eating rust. soak it where the sway bar meets the endlink, and where the edlink bolts to the lca'. then try to get the nut off if not, go get a dremel cut the endlink in half. remove your sway bar, and put it on a vice and use vicgrips to force the nut off. if that doesn't work. there should be enough room between the nut and the sway bar (they way you describe it) cuse the bolt off of the endlink and get it out of the sway bar..

after that all you got left is the edlink on the lca.same deal, if it doesn't give. you may have to drill the bolt out of the lca, using a tap and dye set. what that does is you drill into the bolt and put this piece which is reverse threaded and when you put in the screw you drilled through turn counter clock wise and it'll expand around the bolt, and hopefully pull it out of the lca.
__________________
Project EVA - The Track Package
-----
Project EVA
-----
Reply


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:50 PM.