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Subwoofer question

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Old Aug 13, 2003 | 05:22 AM
  #41  
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Josher
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Originally posted by ACCORDDUST
do you guys also replace your stock speakers ? ? i just want 1 sub for a little bass but u think it will overpower the factory speakers ?

If you can afford it now, I'd suggest upgrading your stock speakers too. A sub won't necessarily overpower your stock speakers, but it depends on what size and power rating you choose for your sub. One 10", 12", 15" ? Also, seeing as you still have your stock speakers, do you still have your stock HU? If so, make sure your stock HU has some RCA preouts to actually run any sub you buy.

You can always adjust how much bass the sub is putting out, by some HU's and by the amp, so you should be able to find some sort of balance between bass and your mids and highs from your stock speakers.
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Old Aug 13, 2003 | 07:21 AM
  #42  
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Originally posted by ACCORDDUST
do you guys also replace your stock speakers ? ? i just want 1 sub for a little bass but u think it will overpower the factory speakers ?
This is what I installed...

Alpine 7894 Head Unit (MP3)
Alpine MRV-F340 Amp
Alpine CHA-S634 CD Changer
Infinity Kappa 60.5CS Front Component Speakers
Infinity Kappa 692.5 Rear 2-way Speakers
Infinity Basslink

I originally tried changing out the stock speakers with Pioneer stuff (with the stock head unit) , but was disappointed with the result. I sort of got carried away with the project and spent more than I ever thought I would on a system, but I really like the sound.

If you are keeping the factory system, you might want to consider a smaller amplified subwoofer. Bazooka and Kenwood make them.
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Old Aug 13, 2003 | 11:45 AM
  #43  
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if your concerned about weight go with a really good 8" or 10" sub.....rockford fosgate makes some really good ones. as for my i have a single 12" fosgate hx2 and its freakin heavy as shit in my trunk. it sounds really good though, just the right amount of bass...and i still have room for 2-3 sets of golf clubs
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 07:00 AM
  #44  
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Default My Install

I ended up finishing up with a 10" Kicker. Here's what I have and love it.

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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 11:07 AM
  #45  
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Heres my 10' kenwood DB (800watt Max), I am running a 800watt amp, and a .5 farad Monster Cap, even though I should be running a 1 farad.



my shit rattles like crazy! I need to get some DYNO MAT
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 04:45 PM
  #46  
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Default subs

Originally posted by DamnAccord
box and sub:
Hey DamnAccord are those the type s alpine subs? If they are how good are they cause i want to get the alpines i just dont know if they are any good. And is there a big difference between the type s and type r?
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 06:22 AM
  #47  
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Use your spare tire well as a sub enclosure. If you use subs that dont require a lot of air space you can add a killer system with NO loss of space.
I have 2 bazooka EL 12's in the tire well of my 95 accord, absolutely no loss of space and it sounds good.
All you have to do is get a piece of MDF and cut it about the same size of the cover over the well. Cut the holes, and seal it in place with expanding foam that hardens and IMO sounds better than a box in the trunk. Let me know if you want pics???
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 07:43 AM
  #48  
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just a theory, but i heard that you face the speakers toward the back of the trunk because a good bass wave needs like 6+ feet in to be its full sound...so facing the speakers back adds that 4 or so feet that you get from the wave bouncing off the back of the trunk and then into the passenger compartment....

...solo barics rule, and you gotta love the sound of 12"s
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 11:37 AM
  #49  
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:wopics: krbcharlotte

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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 02:08 AM
  #50  
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Originally posted by DJ Scotty
I see that you guys who provided pics of your subs in their boxes have the boxes up against the rear seat, with the woofers firing toward the trunk, out at you when you open the trunk---this is how I have my huge sealed box with my two Fosgate 15's, and yet I always wondered if this is the right way to face the box---in a closed-trunk vehicle, such as a sedan or coupe, should a sub box fire backward, toward the trunk area, as we all have it, or should the woofers fire into the seats, forward? I have heard so many theories on this; that by firing the woofers the way we do it, it creates a "bass wave" off the trunk lip that develops and then fires back into the passenger cabin, providing more boom. But, I have also heard, that in vehicles like hatchbacks and SUVs, subwoofer boxes can fire forward toward the passenger area because it's all open back there---the bass isnt trapped in a closed trunk....is this so?


I have had ported boxes, bandpass, sealed, hatchback, sedan, 2 door, and 4 door. I have a 95 accord now with 2 12" JL's pointing to the rear. Bass is non directional, but you do increase the resonant frequency when it bounces of of objects. just like a house sub, with the powered sub pointing the port out to the room where you sit. Turn that beast around and listen to the difference, louder, harder hitting bass


Originally posted by DJ Scotty


Gotcha, Blowme...

I KNOW --- and you are absolutely right --- that bass is non directional and therefore, in theory, a subwoofer can be placed anywhere. So, if I switch my box around to fire the woofers forward into the rear seat, you think because the rear of the box will now be facing the trunk, I wont get that "bass wave" to develop and couple the sound; the subs' cones should be firing toward the open area of the trunk in order to make better bass?

Originally posted by b12uceHuy
Heres my 10' kenwood DB (800watt Max), I am running a 800watt amp, and a .5 farad Monster Cap, even though I should be running a 1 farad.


my shit rattles like crazy! I need to get some DYNO MAT
DYNO mat is over rated for the price, way to expensive. For smaller applications they make a spray foam that works really good. It seeps in betwen peices of metal and reduces more rattle than with mats. and
http://www.parts-express.com/ sells mats similar to dyno mat, but at a fraction of the cost.....if you have some serious bass, it is almost impossible to eliminate the sledge hammer to sheet metal effect.
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