HELP! Change Distibutor Cap and Wires?
I have a 99 accord LX 4cyl and when it rains it's almost impossible to start.
This morning was no different. It takes me 2 mins of stepping on the gas just to get the car to start. I started the car this morning and proceeded to open the hood and check out the wires and distrubtor cap.... I touched the cap and received a lovely shock for my trouble...
Anyways, I called a few places and each one told me I need a new distributor cap and wires.
Has anyone ever changed these themselves? Is it a hard job or should I just pay them to do it for me???
Let me know asap!
Thanks,
Charles
This morning was no different. It takes me 2 mins of stepping on the gas just to get the car to start. I started the car this morning and proceeded to open the hood and check out the wires and distrubtor cap.... I touched the cap and received a lovely shock for my trouble...
Anyways, I called a few places and each one told me I need a new distributor cap and wires.
Has anyone ever changed these themselves? Is it a hard job or should I just pay them to do it for me???
Let me know asap!
Thanks,
Charles
Originally posted by Baget
very easy job i just did it last month... order your parts online to save some cash
very easy job i just did it last month... order your parts online to save some cash
Is there a step by step guide somewhere? Have any tips for me?
Also, where can I get them online?
Thanks,
Charles
I picked up the cap and rotor for my 99 a couple months ago at my local honda dealer parts dept, it was pretty cheap. And the install is easy. Wires are a bit more expensive. I haven't needed new ones yet though. If you need help, I can post some pics from my manual.
I changed my distributor cap,wires and rotor 3 weeks ago,but I did it on my '96 accord. I used a phillips screwdriver , a ratchet and asocket (i don' remember the size,but just try betweeen 6 or 8 mm)
Ok my Haynes manual said that you should disconnect the negative cable from the battery,but I didn't do it .
this was my procedure:
-unscrew the 3 retaining screws
-remember never to mix the wires from the old cap when attaching them to the new one!.You should remove each wire one at time and replace them in the new cap in the exact same location,otherwise you'll have a misfiring order .
-replace the old ruber gasket with the new one.
-and replace the new cap . that's it
you usually change also the ignition rotor when chaging the cap and wires,when you have already removed the cap check the rotor for any rust ,chips or anything that looks like corrosion or wear ,if it's ok go ahead,but if I were you I'd change cap,rotor and wires@ same time.
let us know if you're going to change the ignition rotor so we can let you know how to remove the rotor .
bye
Ok my Haynes manual said that you should disconnect the negative cable from the battery,but I didn't do it .
this was my procedure:
-unscrew the 3 retaining screws
-remember never to mix the wires from the old cap when attaching them to the new one!.You should remove each wire one at time and replace them in the new cap in the exact same location,otherwise you'll have a misfiring order .
-replace the old ruber gasket with the new one.
-and replace the new cap . that's it

you usually change also the ignition rotor when chaging the cap and wires,when you have already removed the cap check the rotor for any rust ,chips or anything that looks like corrosion or wear ,if it's ok go ahead,but if I were you I'd change cap,rotor and wires@ same time.
let us know if you're going to change the ignition rotor so we can let you know how to remove the rotor .
bye
on 5th gens (i don't know about 6ths), the rotor is a pain. if can even get to the screw, it may be so old that it has welded itself to the distributor and needs to be drilled out. just something to keep in mind. peace.
I agree, farily easy job (I did it on my 96 in about 10 minutes- but don;t make the mistake I did if u evcer take off the actual distributor...I did not have the rotor coupling lined up and when I cranked the engine..."SNAP" that made my 10 min job into a two hour job. I had to drain the oil take off the valve cover, go to a local junk yard buy a new distributor, remeber the wiring order for the int coli, ICM, etc....nasty job...so learn form my pain, do every connection one at a time, and make SURE everything is lined up, then you will save yourself time and money!
BTW, anyone ever put on the MSD procap w/ external coil, I had some problem with deciding exacdtly what to disconnect inside the cap (Obvioulsy the Hitachi int coil) and with where to power the ext coil (I ended up using the ignition + wire.
BTW, anyone ever put on the MSD procap w/ external coil, I had some problem with deciding exacdtly what to disconnect inside the cap (Obvioulsy the Hitachi int coil) and with where to power the ext coil (I ended up using the ignition + wire.


