2003 Accord EX 4cyl AT engine malfunction light on steady
145,000 miles. Engine cuts out at about 2800 revs, exactly same in all speeds, 2, D, and D3. Same thing happened a few months ago, problem ended when I shut off and restarted the engine.
Air filter, oil level OK, new IR spark plugs recently.
Took it to the dealer; haven't heard back yet. Any ideas what I'm in for with this?
Air filter, oil level OK, new IR spark plugs recently.
Took it to the dealer; haven't heard back yet. Any ideas what I'm in for with this?
I had no idea what it would be. But the v-tec solenoid could certainly have been the culprit. If it wasn't switching the cam correctly it could definitely kill the engine. I'm suprised they only charged $160. I'd say you got off lucky.
Definitely feels like I got off lucky, based on the cost of other repairs I've seen discussed on these boards, like numerous sensors, etc.
Dang it. Picked up the car, got on the freeway, as soon as it warmed up, on pops the engine light, engine dies right on 2800 revs, exactly the same. Called the service shop (the Honda dealer). Taking it back in in the AM.
Dang it again. (Don't know if anyone's interested, but just in case):
After the problem came back (engine cuts out at just about exactly 2800 RPM, in any speed, 1, 2, D3, or D), I drove home, stopped the car; started it again 45 minutes later, drove just about 3.5 miles, problem remained, with engine light on. After 2 hours, started it again to drive home, and engine ran PERFECTLY, with engine light ON, 3.5 miles home. In the morning, to return the car to the Honda shop, I took the car on freeway 20 miles or so, engine ran PERFECT with engine light OFF (engine would not die, no matter how high I ran the RPM, such as dropping it into D3 at around 50 MPH on a merge ramp, tried this several times on the way downtown); exited freeway, dropped into 2d gear, ran it up to about 4000 RPM, so about 20 mph I guess, and engine light pops ON, engine immediately cuts out, and the engine again will not run above about 2800 RPM. After a few traffic lights, I stop, shut off engine, re-start, and the engine runs PERFECT, about 2 1/2 miles down to the Honda shop. With the engine light still ON. Engine would not cut out at any RPM, ran it up to over 4000 RPM several times in 1, 2 and D3, while I finished up the last 40 blocks or so to the Honda shop.
I got no clue. I don't think the Honda shop does either, yet. The shop had changed out the Vtec solenoid based on a Honda service bulletin that said this would be the problem in 95% of the cases, and that's what they told me before they put in the new Vtec.
Guess I'm in the 5%. I'd love to hear any ideas anybody has. Thanks for listening.
After the problem came back (engine cuts out at just about exactly 2800 RPM, in any speed, 1, 2, D3, or D), I drove home, stopped the car; started it again 45 minutes later, drove just about 3.5 miles, problem remained, with engine light on. After 2 hours, started it again to drive home, and engine ran PERFECTLY, with engine light ON, 3.5 miles home. In the morning, to return the car to the Honda shop, I took the car on freeway 20 miles or so, engine ran PERFECT with engine light OFF (engine would not die, no matter how high I ran the RPM, such as dropping it into D3 at around 50 MPH on a merge ramp, tried this several times on the way downtown); exited freeway, dropped into 2d gear, ran it up to about 4000 RPM, so about 20 mph I guess, and engine light pops ON, engine immediately cuts out, and the engine again will not run above about 2800 RPM. After a few traffic lights, I stop, shut off engine, re-start, and the engine runs PERFECT, about 2 1/2 miles down to the Honda shop. With the engine light still ON. Engine would not cut out at any RPM, ran it up to over 4000 RPM several times in 1, 2 and D3, while I finished up the last 40 blocks or so to the Honda shop.
I got no clue. I don't think the Honda shop does either, yet. The shop had changed out the Vtec solenoid based on a Honda service bulletin that said this would be the problem in 95% of the cases, and that's what they told me before they put in the new Vtec.
Guess I'm in the 5%. I'd love to hear any ideas anybody has. Thanks for listening.
Thanks, I'll ask the repair shop about that. When the engine cuts out, it sure feels like fuel-feed is interrupted, but in this day and age, seat-of-the-pants sensations probably don't mean much.
Just speculating, but if the Vtec failing was the only problem, wouldn't it just leave the valve cams operating in the wrong phase, and rob power, rather than totally killing the engine? I dunno.
Thanks
Just speculating, but if the Vtec failing was the only problem, wouldn't it just leave the valve cams operating in the wrong phase, and rob power, rather than totally killing the engine? I dunno.
Thanks
Don't know the code.
The problem turned out to be that an oil line, which supplies pressure that triggers the operation of the vTec solenoid, has a little filter screen which was clogged. They rinsed it out, put it back, and the car runs fine now.
No charge for the second visit. Of course, I'll never know if it was really a failed vtec solenoid, or just a clogged oil screen in the line in the first place.
Where do users of this website get these codes? I don't have diagnostic equipment. Will the Nav screen or the radio/clock display show the codes somehow or other. Hate to reveal my ignorance.
The problem turned out to be that an oil line, which supplies pressure that triggers the operation of the vTec solenoid, has a little filter screen which was clogged. They rinsed it out, put it back, and the car runs fine now.
No charge for the second visit. Of course, I'll never know if it was really a failed vtec solenoid, or just a clogged oil screen in the line in the first place.
Where do users of this website get these codes? I don't have diagnostic equipment. Will the Nav screen or the radio/clock display show the codes somehow or other. Hate to reveal my ignorance.


