It makes sense to go ahead and do both sides. The axles should only be $55 each from AutoZone. (core charge will be an additional refundable $60 each.)

If you have a manual transmission, the passenger side should be easy. Only special tools I recommend are a 32mm socket and a breaker bar. The spindle nut is torqued at 180lbs so a little 8" ratchet ain't gonna get it off.

You will also need some manual transmission fluid from the dealership if you're doing the passenger side. Runs $4.43 - $6.00 a quart and you'll need 3 qts (2.2qts to be exact).

A ball joint separator is a good tool to have.

Now if you're doing the driver's side, DON'T FORCE IT! The driver's side shaft does not connect to the transmission like the passenger side does. It instead connects to a Intermediate Shaft (aka Half Shaft aka Jack Shaft) that connects to the transmission which is located on the passenger side. If you are unable to get the inner CV joint housing separated from the Intermediate Shaft with a good tug, forget it! That biitch ain't coming out. Just take off the boot from the new axle, remove the new inner CV joint housing, and rebuild the new axle into the old inner CV joint housing (with more axle regrease). You can even remove the entire Intermediate Shaft from the transmission by unbolting three bolts and then pulling it from the transmission (just like you pulled the passenger side).

I couldn't get that part separated and tried banging, wedging, and more banging to get it out. It didn't come out. Instead, I ended up fukcing up the bearings in the Intermediate Shaft. So now my car is vibrating like a mufukca until my Intermediate Shaft gets here next week. Cost $200+ from the dealer. I'm getting it for $50 shipped from www.partsadventure.com.

You've been warned!

 

Whats up NightShade? Like my sig, LOL.

I had a friend help me do my passanger side CV axel. I went to Napa (cheapest price around here than the other big auto supply stores). I tried taking off that 32mm (I think it was 32) axel nut with a cheapo no-name socket. I broke both in the set in about 10 seconds. I used a breaker bar on the end of the handel, and those things were as strong on Playdough. My friend had a air ratchet, and that took it off like it was nothing. It's pretty easy to get it off. Don't pay someone to do it. If you can lower your car, then you can do it. Haynes talks a little about doing it.

 

when u remove the axle nut, u do not need a air gun or impact wrench. just get the socket and a breaker bar, and a friend. have the friend hold the breaks as you losen the axle nut. its alot easier if u ask me. plus its cheaper

 

I always break the axle nut by hand. Its not as hard as some make it out to be.

As for seperation of the axle from the tranny trust me you don't want to take the CV apart if you can avoid it at all costs....time consuming and a pain in the ass.

To remove it from the tranny simply take a sizeable screwdriver and place it in the tiny space where the axle and the tranny then work it back and forth and it should slide right out. YOu will get some fluid leakage but you can plug it with a rag to minimize mess or let it drain out into a pan and refill your tranny after both sides are done.

General rule is if one side is bad go ahead and replace the other as well since it can't be too far behind and it saves you hassle in the end.

 

First of all forget the clicking noise... Your going to have to go more into the rpms flying up when you hit the gas and it all of a sudden jerking and taking off. Honda's put the power to the wheel that has less resistence and if you have a locked up axle on one side, it will just put power to the other side and you'll either feel resistence like the brake is on, or the other side may have to much play and you'll feel a clunk like you have a bad motor mount. If your tranny isn't engaging in to gear when you give it gas you got a problem. First thing drive your car get it to operating temp, shut it off and check your dip stick on your tranny withing a minute of shutting it off, hopefully your low if not get back to me and i'll reasearch this problem, because as far as I know honda's don't have a drain back problem. Also what year what size engine do you have and how many miles. Look under it for red fluid. Have you had it surfaced ever and by whom. Have you ever added tranny fluid to it and what kind? I'm not trying to scare you, I'm just being over catious because people don't think about their tranny when there is a problem, and that's the second most important thing on your car.