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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 10:02 AM
  #11  
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JiggaFan
PIMP-strollin' on 'em!
 
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Ya BACKYARD!
Default *IMPORTANT * IMPORTANT * IMPORTANT *

Originally posted by aero3685
Yeah, well, I just wanted to make sure there was no little tricks or anything.
It makes sense to go ahead and do both sides. The axles should only be $55 each from AutoZone. (core charge will be an additional refundable $60 each.)

If you have a manual transmission, the passenger side should be easy. Only special tools I recommend are a 32mm socket and a breaker bar. The spindle nut is torqued at 180lbs so a little 8" ratchet ain't gonna get it off.

You will also need some manual transmission fluid from the dealership if you're doing the passenger side. Runs $4.43 - $6.00 a quart and you'll need 3 qts (2.2qts to be exact).

A ball joint separator is a good tool to have.

Now if you're doing the driver's side, DON'T FORCE IT! The driver's side shaft does not connect to the transmission like the passenger side does. It instead connects to a Intermediate Shaft (aka Half Shaft aka Jack Shaft) that connects to the transmission which is located on the passenger side. If you are unable to get the inner CV joint housing separated from the Intermediate Shaft with a good tug, forget it! That biitch ain't coming out. Just take off the boot from the new axle, remove the new inner CV joint housing, and rebuild the new axle into the old inner CV joint housing (with more axle regrease). You can even remove the entire Intermediate Shaft from the transmission by unbolting three bolts and then pulling it from the transmission (just like you pulled the passenger side).

I couldn't get that part separated and tried banging, wedging, and more banging to get it out. It didn't come out. Instead, I ended up fukcing up the bearings in the Intermediate Shaft. So now my car is vibrating like a mufukca until my Intermediate Shaft gets here next week. Cost $200+ from the dealer. I'm getting it for $50 shipped from www.partsadventure.com.

You've been warned!
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