Accord starting problems
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 901
Likes: 1
From: CA
I got the error code 6 too. I visually inspected the sensor and found a lot of crud in the connector. Tried to clean it out with some compressed air, but that didn't help. Was going to replace the sensor but haven't gotten to it yet.
After I got the error code 6, I came upon this theory: If the ECU is getting a water overtemp reading (whether legitimate or not), does the ECU prevent the car from starting? If so, that would explain making the car hard to start until it "thinks" its cooled down sufficiently.
I've also heard to check the ignitor in the distributor. That's also on this weekend's to do list.
After I got the error code 6, I came upon this theory: If the ECU is getting a water overtemp reading (whether legitimate or not), does the ECU prevent the car from starting? If so, that would explain making the car hard to start until it "thinks" its cooled down sufficiently.
I've also heard to check the ignitor in the distributor. That's also on this weekend's to do list.
fix that problem first as a bad coolant temp sensor can cause not starting when hot because the computer doesn't know the tempature of the engine and thenks it's cole when it's hot dumps extra fuel and floods the motor..the sensor is for the ECU it TWS it's the one closest to the head ..
Honda Lover
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: California,USA
1988 Accord LXi, 209K. Starts fine in the morning, but starts to stall at stoplights after about 20min of city driving. Able to keep it running by holding brake and and throttle at same time. Works fine during open road driving. When I shut off the engine for a few minutes, it won't start unless I let it sit for a couple of hours.
When I first experienced this, I had a heavy smell of fuel when I tried to start the engine and found leaky fuel injectors. I replaced the injectors and the fuel smell went away, but it's still hard to start when warm. I have also replaced the fuel filter and the fuel relay that's behind the dash. Still no help.
Took it to a mechanic for diagnosis and he couldn't find anything wrong either.
I'm out of ideas. Help?????
When I first experienced this, I had a heavy smell of fuel when I tried to start the engine and found leaky fuel injectors. I replaced the injectors and the fuel smell went away, but it's still hard to start when warm. I have also replaced the fuel filter and the fuel relay that's behind the dash. Still no help.
Took it to a mechanic for diagnosis and he couldn't find anything wrong either.
I'm out of ideas. Help?????
My best guess is your catalytic converters are clogged. Get them checked at exhaust shop, with this many miles, its very possible. and yes this could make your car do that.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Just found another guy with similar issue. (not sure on details or which car).
But his would start if he held down the gas pedal (which on some cars goes into "clear flood mode")
On carburated cars if you flooded the engine the trick was to hold the gas pedal down to let air in to help burn the extra fuel. But on a fuel injected car if you press to full throttle the injectors go to full flow. So they programmed some cars to cut off the injectors at full throttle (IF THERE IS A "CRANK" SIGNAL. Starter motor is turning). I am not sure if Honda does this. Or if it even existed in those days (late 80's).
ANYWAYS. This guy says it was his coolant temp sensor.
Isn't that wierd.... you get a coolant temp sensor code and it actually means there is something wrong with your coolant temp sensor.... this is unheard of. ha ha ha. I have never had a trouble code actually lead me to the real problem before.. usually its just a hint.
hopefully its true. we will see this afternoon.
But his would start if he held down the gas pedal (which on some cars goes into "clear flood mode")
On carburated cars if you flooded the engine the trick was to hold the gas pedal down to let air in to help burn the extra fuel. But on a fuel injected car if you press to full throttle the injectors go to full flow. So they programmed some cars to cut off the injectors at full throttle (IF THERE IS A "CRANK" SIGNAL. Starter motor is turning). I am not sure if Honda does this. Or if it even existed in those days (late 80's).
ANYWAYS. This guy says it was his coolant temp sensor.
Isn't that wierd.... you get a coolant temp sensor code and it actually means there is something wrong with your coolant temp sensor.... this is unheard of. ha ha ha. I have never had a trouble code actually lead me to the real problem before.. usually its just a hint.
hopefully its true. we will see this afternoon.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
So I bought 3 coolant temp sensors. one looked like it wasn't a factory sensor. So i tried that one and then spent all day and a quarter tank of gas just idling the thing and trying to get it not to work. Seems to be fixed. Starts every time no matter what temp. runs normal in every way.
I am nervous to conclude that its fixed after the fiasco I went through. But So far so good. I'll just drive with my fingers crossed from now on.
Hope yours works too.
I am nervous to conclude that its fixed after the fiasco I went through. But So far so good. I'll just drive with my fingers crossed from now on.
Hope yours works too.
v-card member alpha
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 0
From: Assplosion, NE
Huh... I wonder if that could've been affecting the '86 LXi I drove years ago. Very interesting. (never actually stalled though)
Good job on the fix and let us know if it continues to run well :goodjob:
Good job on the fix and let us know if it continues to run well :goodjob:
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Solution?
Did a few things this weekend:
1. Replaced the temp sensor. While I read everyone's comments about resetting the computer, my sensor actually had a pin break off in the connector. Didn't see much other choice than to replace.
2. Replaced the ignitor. Some have suggested on other boards that an ignitor might be the culprit, although many more Honda owners have experienced faulty relay issues. It was easy to get to and my Haynes manual described a test for it. It failed the test, so I replaced that too.
Now she runs fine (so far). I drove normally today and it experienced no problems where in the past, I would have been struggling to keep it running. My theory is that I was fighting 2 different problems; a bad ignitor and temp sensor.
Some lessons learned:
1. Check the ignitor before the fuel relay. While the relay has earned it's bad reputation, it's easier to check and replace the ignitor first. Anyone who's replaced the relay, especially you guys with big hands, knows that this comes with a big PITA (Pain in the a**) factor compared to the ignitor. Trying to work my hands behind the dashboard after moving the fuse panel left a bunch of scrapes on my knuckles. Plus, I've found the Haynes test for the ignitor to be more consistent than the Haynes test for the relay, considering that the reason for relay failure is temperature dependent. If you wait until your engine cools to test the relay, you may get false positive test results.
2. Trust the error codes in the ECU. I'm kicking myself for not pulling the error codes earlier and ferreting out the faulty temp sensor. That tipped me off that I was dealing with 2 different problems.
Thanks to all of you for your advice and help. Please, pass the word along about the ignitor.
Tschuss
1. Replaced the temp sensor. While I read everyone's comments about resetting the computer, my sensor actually had a pin break off in the connector. Didn't see much other choice than to replace.
2. Replaced the ignitor. Some have suggested on other boards that an ignitor might be the culprit, although many more Honda owners have experienced faulty relay issues. It was easy to get to and my Haynes manual described a test for it. It failed the test, so I replaced that too.
Now she runs fine (so far). I drove normally today and it experienced no problems where in the past, I would have been struggling to keep it running. My theory is that I was fighting 2 different problems; a bad ignitor and temp sensor.
Some lessons learned:
1. Check the ignitor before the fuel relay. While the relay has earned it's bad reputation, it's easier to check and replace the ignitor first. Anyone who's replaced the relay, especially you guys with big hands, knows that this comes with a big PITA (Pain in the a**) factor compared to the ignitor. Trying to work my hands behind the dashboard after moving the fuse panel left a bunch of scrapes on my knuckles. Plus, I've found the Haynes test for the ignitor to be more consistent than the Haynes test for the relay, considering that the reason for relay failure is temperature dependent. If you wait until your engine cools to test the relay, you may get false positive test results.
2. Trust the error codes in the ECU. I'm kicking myself for not pulling the error codes earlier and ferreting out the faulty temp sensor. That tipped me off that I was dealing with 2 different problems.
Thanks to all of you for your advice and help. Please, pass the word along about the ignitor.
Tschuss