'94 Accord - Rear Brakes
#1
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'94 Accord - Rear Brakes
I've hunted through previous posts for info on changing the rear brake pads on my '94 accord. Before I tear into this I want to get my head (and tools) in order. Rear brakes weren't done, because couldn't get pads separated out enough to fit over rotors. I'm hoping that the previous people who worked on this didn't damage anything.
Here's what I gleaned from posts I read:
1a) do not compress w/ C-clamp
1b) there is a special "rear brake pistol tool" which is used to "rotate the piston into the caliper" http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=429
2a) Use "brake quiet" or "brake lube" between pad and shim to avoid brake squealing
2b) If still squeaking - use OEM pads
2c) OEM pads are "softer" so they don't make as much noise, but wear out after about 15K (but don't wear out rotors as fast) <<gee, I wish I had known that before>>
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=139753
Any other info anyone wants to toss my way would be appreciated!
Thanks,
MaryS
Here's what I gleaned from posts I read:
1a) do not compress w/ C-clamp
1b) there is a special "rear brake pistol tool" which is used to "rotate the piston into the caliper" http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=429
2a) Use "brake quiet" or "brake lube" between pad and shim to avoid brake squealing
2b) If still squeaking - use OEM pads
2c) OEM pads are "softer" so they don't make as much noise, but wear out after about 15K (but don't wear out rotors as fast) <<gee, I wish I had known that before>>
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=139753
Any other info anyone wants to toss my way would be appreciated!
Thanks,
MaryS
#2
1b - that tool is OK & it doesn't cost much. But honestly, you don't need it.
The face of the piston has grooves. I use either a huge screwdriver or else something like a putty knife to turn the piston. As you turn it, pay attention to the rubber seal around the piston. Make sure it slides & doesn't wrinkle & tear.
Depending on the rotor thickness, you may not want to twist the piston all the way in. Just enough so you can install the new pads. Then the handbrake auto-adjuster doesn't have so far to go...
The face of the piston has grooves. I use either a huge screwdriver or else something like a putty knife to turn the piston. As you turn it, pay attention to the rubber seal around the piston. Make sure it slides & doesn't wrinkle & tear.
Depending on the rotor thickness, you may not want to twist the piston all the way in. Just enough so you can install the new pads. Then the handbrake auto-adjuster doesn't have so far to go...
#3
I don't think the pistons on my 95 front disc turn in.... I have always used a C-clamp and have never had a problem with them.
CutNGlass, are you sure your 94 has rear discs? I don't know if they put those on accords then.... mine has drums and they blow to replace the shoes.
CutNGlass, are you sure your 94 has rear discs? I don't know if they put those on accords then.... mine has drums and they blow to replace the shoes.
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Finch13:
Definitely Disc. It was very frustrating to have to take new pads off and put old pads back on when I was soooo close to being finished! See link I referenced above, re: can't use c-clamp to compress piston on rear brakes.
JimBlake:
Thanks for tips. Picked up a "disc brake piston tool" yesterday < $10. Thanks for tip about the handbrake auto-adjuster & only opening up calipers enough to install new pads.
_____
So, now I'm waiting for this weekend -- temp should be "only" 90 w/ RF less than 100.
----Thanks for taking the time to respond.
MaryS.
Definitely Disc. It was very frustrating to have to take new pads off and put old pads back on when I was soooo close to being finished! See link I referenced above, re: can't use c-clamp to compress piston on rear brakes.
JimBlake:
Thanks for tips. Picked up a "disc brake piston tool" yesterday < $10. Thanks for tip about the handbrake auto-adjuster & only opening up calipers enough to install new pads.
_____
So, now I'm waiting for this weekend -- temp should be "only" 90 w/ RF less than 100.
----Thanks for taking the time to respond.
MaryS.
#5
Finch, the business about twisting the piston is only on the rear. It's the handbrake auto-adjust mechanism inside the caliper that you're dealing with.
The fronts have no handbrake, so they just push straight in.
The fronts have no handbrake, so they just push straight in.