hello all. I'm replacing the master cylinder on my 97 accord. Non abs. Unfortunately the page in my service manual with the bleeding procedure has been ripped out. I just need to know what the wheel sequence is for bleeding. On other cars I usually do farthest wheels first which I'm sure would be fine to do on my car but I just want to check first. thanks

 

If nobody answers with solid information, I'll suggest RR - LF - LR - RF.

But... the bleeding order is based on which circuit is likely to push bubbles into which other circuit. So the consequences of doing the wrong order is simply that you may have to go back around a few extra times before all the bubbles are worked out.

 

yeah you start from the furthest wheel and work your way close to the master cylinder

 

this is something I haven't run into before. With new mc the brakes are still soft. I bench bled the mc and all four wheels. Pedal still goes to the floor. I bled the system a second time and it made no difference. The car is stopping but not on a dime. When I pump the pedal it doesn't get any harder so I'm sure there isn't any air in the system. I was thinking maybe I got a bad mc out of the box but what are the chances of that. Any ideas?? thanks

 

i bet your caliper slide pins are froze or in upside down

 

Did you do the measurement of the length of the MC pushrod (comparing old vs. new one)? If that's not right, your vacuum booster won't boost properly.

 

yeah, I matched up mc pushrods and both were the same. Including the depth on the inside of course. I bled it again this morning just to be sure and no air in system. The car brakes even so I don't think a caliper or rear wheel cylinder is shot. There are no visible leaks either. Just so you can get an idea of what's happening, I put the car in drive and press the brake until it starts to engage which is about an inch down, then I fully engage it until the car stops which is another inch. From this point on I can press the pedal another 2 inches. It never gets real tough. I have come to 2 conclusions.....one, that there was still some air in the mc after I bench bled it which I doubt but you never know and two, that the aftermarket mc (Tru Torque) I bought is bad since the pedal action is almost the same as before. Thanks

 

How much fluid did you bleed thru each wheel? How did you bleed it (pump pedal, pressure, vacuum)?

Sometimes when I've had the MC open, it takes a tremendous amount of bleeding. Fluid will be clear & free of bubbles so I think I'm done. Try it & get a soft pedal, so I bleed some more, eventually I get some more bubbles & then it's good. (This hasn't happened to me since I got my pressure bleder so ???)