Ideas on how to break crank pully nut?
90 Accord LX 213K miles
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
Originally Posted by fastball
Those things are supposed to be torqued down to about 400 lbs (remember, this is the part of the engine that actually moves your car)..... if you can break it off without a compressed impact socket, that's great. But, when you go to put the new one back on, you better have Superman torque it down for you before you even start the engine 
It's actually 159 ft.lbs. which can be done easily - with a 12 inch bar, that's exactly 159 lbs of pressure on it, but in my case with a 4 foot pipe, it's 159/4 or approximately 40 lbs on the end of the pipe. They get so tight because the crankshaft's normal rotation tightens them more. You're right that you definitely don't want that falling off. If you look in the FAQ thread, there are pdf files with instructions for timing belt replacement, which includes a diagram with torque values.
90 Accord LX 213K miles
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
Originally Posted by 93EXaccord
how the hell did you get a 4 foot pipe in there... unless the car was on the lift
Mr Clutch
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 786
Likes: 0
From: In your girls....
If it's still on,..
make sure you use a can or two of wd 40 or something like that....
Then get a propane blow torch ($20.00)
and heat the bitch up till it glows.
Becareful,.. there is a seal in there that might get damaged from the heat.
I heated mine up for a awhile and had no problems.
Also try to tighten the bolt,.. and then try to untighten it.
Back and forth.
make sure you use a can or two of wd 40 or something like that....
Then get a propane blow torch ($20.00)
and heat the bitch up till it glows.
Becareful,.. there is a seal in there that might get damaged from the heat.
I heated mine up for a awhile and had no problems.
Also try to tighten the bolt,.. and then try to untighten it.
Back and forth.
Thread Starter
Engines hate me!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
update, the crank nut is off. i got a pry bar in the little hole for seeing the flywheel, and a nieghbor used superman strenght to kick the breakerbar, causing the bolt to come free. (it may have just been 3 days with 9 applications of PB blaster) but i reached another tough spot, trying to get the t-belt cover off. it seems as though i may have to lossen the left side engine mount * so i can work in there. thanks for all the advice guys.
* haynes says that, but i never do half the stuff that book says. so i tried to get around it, but trying to wedge tools in there is really hard, and im thinking it may actually save time to loosen the left side and swing'er down
* haynes says that, but i never do half the stuff that book says. so i tried to get around it, but trying to wedge tools in there is really hard, and im thinking it may actually save time to loosen the left side and swing'er down
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,975
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by 93EXaccord
update, the crank nut is off. i got a pry bar in the little hole for seeing the flywheel, and a nieghbor used superman strenght to kick the breakerbar, causing the bolt to come free. (it may have just been 3 days with 9 applications of PB blaster) but i reached another tough spot, trying to get the t-belt cover off. it seems as though i may have to lossen the left side engine mount * so i can work in there. thanks for all the advice guys.
* haynes says that, but i never do half the stuff that book says. so i tried to get around it, but trying to wedge tools in there is really hard, and im thinking it may actually save time to loosen the left side and swing'er down
* haynes says that, but i never do half the stuff that book says. so i tried to get around it, but trying to wedge tools in there is really hard, and im thinking it may actually save time to loosen the left side and swing'er down