Ideas on how to break crank pully nut?
#1
Engines hate me!
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Ideas on how to break crank pully nut?
well as the story goes i blew my head gasket (i hope thats it) and im replacing everything i can get my hands on, belts, hoses, gaskets... essential a full engine rebuild. and i need to get the crank shaft pully off but that 19mm nut is really on there.
i was wondering if there are any tricks to breaking it free, the way im trying now is i put the tranny in gear and depress the brake pedal, then a fat man holds on the front cross member and trys to break the nut loose with a breaker bar... but that hasn't yeilded anything other than a really funny sight
i was wondering if there are any tricks to breaking it free, the way im trying now is i put the tranny in gear and depress the brake pedal, then a fat man holds on the front cross member and trys to break the nut loose with a breaker bar... but that hasn't yeilded anything other than a really funny sight
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interesting, i hear these sockets are like $$$, so i guess i have a reason to set up my huge air compressor in the back of the garage... o well big ass impact gun here i come,
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well i tired again today, i think im not wedging right, im not exactly sure where to put the pry bar. my exhaust is in the way of inserting a pry bar at all but one spot. and 5 mins straight with the impact and the bolt is still there... ahh one more night of pb blaster wont hurt anything.
at least no sockets have broke... i recently snaped 2 steel mac sockets on the head bolts
at least no sockets have broke... i recently snaped 2 steel mac sockets on the head bolts
#7
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I just did my timing belt and related stuff, and my crank bolt was on there really tight. I had a 1/2 inch drive 18 inch breaker bar with an 18 inch extension and a four foot pipe from menards (around $10, make sure it's wide enough to fit your breaker bar inside). The car was on the ground with the wheel turned all the way to the left, and it just barely had enough clearance. I set the car in 5th gear, parking brake pulled up, and since I didn't have an assistant I set something heavy to press the brake pedal. Also, I had the extension resting on a jackstand so it was level with the bolt. I actually had called the Honda dealer nearby to ask for advice and to see if they rent/sell their crank holding tools, but they don't, so his advice was to do the 5th gear/brake thing that I mentioned. BTW, amazon.com sells crank pulley holders ranging from around $12 and up. Anyway, it took a surprising amount of effort considering the 4 foot pipe, but it worked, and my car's now running with a new timing belt, balance shafts belt, and water pump. Also, if you're going to be in the timing belt area, you should install a front balance shaft oil seal retainer - it's a $3 part at Honda dealers, installs with just one bolt, and prevents the oil seal from slipping out causing massive oil loss which can quickly seize an engine. It was way more common in 94-97 Accords, but less often also happens in 90-93's. There was a thread on the cb7 tuners forum all about it, if you want I'll look for the link.
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yes i saw that thread and was planning on installing the retainer...
OHS yes im turning it the right way, you just have to figure its been about 90,000 miles since the t-belt was replaced, so after 7 years of ohio road salt, that thing is not easy to get off... hell the thru bolt for the front suspension took 2 people on a 6 foot pipe on an 18inch breaker bar. our weather just makes old cars even more of a pain in the ass
OHS yes im turning it the right way, you just have to figure its been about 90,000 miles since the t-belt was replaced, so after 7 years of ohio road salt, that thing is not easy to get off... hell the thru bolt for the front suspension took 2 people on a 6 foot pipe on an 18inch breaker bar. our weather just makes old cars even more of a pain in the ass
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Those things are supposed to be torqued down to about 400 lbs (remember, this is the part of the engine that actually moves your car)..... if you can break it off without a compressed impact socket, that's great. But, when you go to put the new one back on, you better have Superman torque it down for you before you even start the engine
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Originally Posted by fastball
Those things are supposed to be torqued down to about 400 lbs (remember, this is the part of the engine that actually moves your car)..... if you can break it off without a compressed impact socket, that's great. But, when you go to put the new one back on, you better have Superman torque it down for you before you even start the engine