my sentiments exactly. i hate it when people argue points they know nothing about.

 

I know the washers that guy gave me compressed, and that he said he had the same ones on his car. I know this. I know a couple guys that would buy 16 4 cent washers over 16 7 cent washers, or a 50 cent bolt over the 80 bolt. I don't know the extact prices, but I know the cheap people that would buy the wrong ones not understanding there is a differenance. IMO they shouldn't be working on their cars either, due to the poor jerry rigging I've seen on a couple of them, it scaried me to think I could be driving next to them on the road.

If I didn't know these cheap asses I would be on your side of this arguement, but I do know a couple.

 

that's why you do it yourself and do it right. if one of the el cheapo re-re's decides to go the cheap route with the bolts and washers let them fall into the ranks of darwin awardees. all i'm sayin is that you don't have to spend a rediculous price for an ingalls rear camber kit when you can get the EXACT same thing at Lowes or Home Depot for $10.

 

so let me get this straight:


this:






and this:




will do the same thing?? and that last picture can be made from stuff at HomeDepot?? so why would ingall make that first picture one??

just askin' cus i need to get my front&back camber done also...and but i don't feel too convinced at the fact that my rear camber can be fixed with 5 bucks worth of parts and be just as good as the 160 bucks one.

 

if you look at the ingalls page http://www.ingallseng.com/cars/honda.html this is listed as a 90-97 accord rear camber adjuster. hmmmm.... coincidence?

http://www.ingallseng.com/images/3893.jpg

 

bolt and washer isn't "adjustable" and precise as washers and bolts, all it does is shims out the upper arm.

 

you don't need adjustable anyway unless you've got coilovers or you like swappin out your springs on a regular basis. it's just a ploy for big business to take your money for something you don't need.

 

so if i have coilover...which i do...you'd recomend the real one over the bolt and washers right. i just need some suggestions that's all. since i don't wanna spend too much money if they both work just as well

 

There's really no point in whole replacement arms, they do give you infinite amount of adjustment, where as washers would only give you +.25 deg, or +.50 deg, etc. You can get infinite adjustment too with the washers, just gotta grind them down, but there's really no point to get it that accurate.

And whoever said that the washer and bolt trick is cheap and not safe. Well, I have seen more than one set of those ingalls replacment arms snap off at the ball joint. How safe does that sound? If you take a look at one, it is really weak at the area they pressed the tubular steel together and attached to ball joint. Not saying that they WILL always break, but after seeing a few sets snap off, I am positive I don't want them on my car. I think they tend to break more when you set them at more extreme angles.

Lastly I have noticed that shiming the rear upper arm will mess with your toe, and I think if you push the upper arm out too much, you won't be able to keep the toe in spec anymore. Not sure about this though, that's what I have noticed when I get my alignments done. Because if you look at how the rear toe is adjusted you will see it has very limited amount of adjustment. This might not be the case though, because I never tried shiming it more than about +.75 deg, so I can't say for sure.

So all in all, I suggest you use the bolts and shims method,

 

honestly when my mechanic lowered my car they put 6-7 washers and long ass bolts on each side (twice whats recomended). kinda scary but havent had any problems with it and its been like that for a hard year. I just lowered my car more so I just bought an ingalls camber kit (part #3881 R&L)