.

 

Thanks for the responses guys....seems i will be going with some blanks. As for the pads, Tirerack.com says that my stock pads are ceramic. I didn't think this was true. My buddy got some on his 98 accord and he said they only lasted 4-5 months. Just wondering if I should def go with composite pads.


A good point....I notice my brake pedal has been rather mushy lately. Any other signs of a failing cylinder?

 

taken off another site
"If the brake pedal is just low all the time, then there is air in the system. However if the pedal bleeds down to the floor when the brakes are applied and if you let of the brake then press it again and it feels back to normal then its a bad master cylinder."

also in the 4th gen manual, it says that if you hold the brake pedal frimly and shut the car off, it shouldnt go down at all. if it goes down quite a bit, it might be a sign.

 

Brembo doesn't make slotted and drilled in one rotor. Is either one or the other. DON'T GET THE EBAY JUNK. THEY ARE FAKE. go to www.brembo.com

 

has anyone try changing their brake lines from rubber to steal?

 

You'd be wasting your money on a normally driven street car, unless the original rubber lines are old and feel mushy or exhibit any surface cracks. Then I'd consider switching to some quality braided s.s. lines, as the cost can't be that different between oem rubber and aftermarket s.s.

 

I put Brembo slotted rotors on front with AEM pads last summer. I now have vibration when braking from 35-25mph. I suspect a rotor is warped. I'm surprised given I do not drive/brake hard, basically normal driving. I'm looking to replace rotors with Brembo blanks but not sure if I need to also replace the AEM pads (still have 90% on them).
I use Goodridge s.s. lines. Tirerack.com has added new selection of rotors and pads. Any suggestions with regards to different pads or going to Powerslot rotors. I know Brembo are excellent quality but am concerned about warped rotor at less than a year of use.
Thanks!

 

Blanks are your best bet.

You run into potential cracking or breaking issues with drilled and/or slotted. If you're going to road race or do lots of tracks days, then sure, you need something more aggressive for rotors AND pads.

Besides cooling? Well, that's the main point of drilled and or slotted rotors. Cooler brakes mean better stopping brakes....

 

Firstly, why on earth would you have someone TURN rotors? You can get a set of rotors for around 60-70$(Blanks) and swap them yourself. Turning rotors is a waste.

Secondly, Blanks with a good set of pads. I run the AEM pads on my accord and they work really well. I would suggest the AEM pads, or most offerings from Hawk. Get brembo or stoptech rotors or an OEM offering. Dont get cheap NAPA/AUTOZONE/ADVANCED if you can avoid it.

Thirdly, Rotors do not warp. Warp is a general term that was commonly used and is now MISrepresenting the problem at hand. Brake pads have a tendency to leave Deposits which are what cause the Shake with a "WARPED" rotor. Higher quality which ussually means HIGHER priced pads prevent this WARPING(deposits). Mainly because of the materials used and quality controls in place.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

My CRX that is COMPLETELY stripped has less expensive pads/rotors on it and it stops alright...smells awful under hard braking...but my accord STOPS like a DREAM! Good rotors and pads front and rear and an air free brake fluid system. Dont skip on brakes...its your ass in the bag when you do.