problem with ball joints help me out!
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problem with ball joints help me out!
i don't know if this is a common problem or not..but it's retarded and pissing me off and i didn't have this problem with my upper ball joints and lower ball joints...
when trying to take off the castle nut, the ball joint is just spinning with the castle nut...is this normal? how the hell do i take off the castle nut off then? help me out guys!! i need the lower control arms off the car already =(
when trying to take off the castle nut, the ball joint is just spinning with the castle nut...is this normal? how the hell do i take off the castle nut off then? help me out guys!! i need the lower control arms off the car already =(
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From: OH
That basically means that the ball joint is toast, and you'll need to replace it. I had this problem when doing a friends axle, but it didn't start spinning until I tried to put the castle nut back on...so I didn't quite have the problem you do. I beat the old ball joint out (after removing the spindle)...then used a ball joint press to press in a new joint. In your case, maybe you can press the joint out on the car if you have the right press.
I've heard you can try to zip it off with air tools...if you dont have that access, etc, worst case scenario, you could cut off the nut and the bottom of the bolt, but then you might have a hard time pressing/hammering out the ball joint.
The fact that it's spinning, but the nut is tight...you could probably leave it until it causes a problem, but that doesn't help since you need it off.
Good luck though.
I've heard you can try to zip it off with air tools...if you dont have that access, etc, worst case scenario, you could cut off the nut and the bottom of the bolt, but then you might have a hard time pressing/hammering out the ball joint.
The fact that it's spinning, but the nut is tight...you could probably leave it until it causes a problem, but that doesn't help since you need it off.
Good luck though.
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The ball has to be able to spin in it's socket when you steer, right? It's only bad if it can rattle around. Or if the entire socket spins in it's mounting.
I've had to use a jack or crowbar or something to press the taper shaft tightly into the tapered hole so it doesn't spin. That's not too unusual.
I've had to use a jack or crowbar or something to press the taper shaft tightly into the tapered hole so it doesn't spin. That's not too unusual.
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From: OH
Originally Posted by JimBlake
The ball has to be able to spin in it's socket when you steer, right? It's only bad if it can rattle around. Or if the entire socket spins in it's mounting.
I've had to use a jack or crowbar or something to press the taper shaft tightly into the tapered hole so it doesn't spin. That's not too unusual.
I've had to use a jack or crowbar or something to press the taper shaft tightly into the tapered hole so it doesn't spin. That's not too unusual.
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On a NEW balljoint, the joint is tight & stiff, so it doesn't spin real easy. Also the threads on the stud & castle-nut haven't had time to corrode. So you can spin the nut on without worrying about anything.
After a few years the ball gets easier to spin in it's socket - it's supposed to do this, but NOT supposed to get rattly-loose. Sometimes a joint is right at the point where it's easy to spin but it's got no sideways rattling looseness.
Now if you re-use a good ball joint, it might spin. All you have to do is press it's tapered stud hard into the tapered hole, so friction keeps it from spinning. Some cars you can get a small jack under the knuckle or under the control arm, depending on which way the BJ is oriented. Other times (upper?) you have to get creative with crowbars or C-clamps or something. If you're lucky the stud has a screwdriver slot or a socket for an allen wrench so you can hold it. Once it begins to get tight, then it sticks & you can continue to tighten it with a torque wrench.
After a few years the ball gets easier to spin in it's socket - it's supposed to do this, but NOT supposed to get rattly-loose. Sometimes a joint is right at the point where it's easy to spin but it's got no sideways rattling looseness.
Now if you re-use a good ball joint, it might spin. All you have to do is press it's tapered stud hard into the tapered hole, so friction keeps it from spinning. Some cars you can get a small jack under the knuckle or under the control arm, depending on which way the BJ is oriented. Other times (upper?) you have to get creative with crowbars or C-clamps or something. If you're lucky the stud has a screwdriver slot or a socket for an allen wrench so you can hold it. Once it begins to get tight, then it sticks & you can continue to tighten it with a torque wrench.
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From: OH
Originally Posted by JimBlake
On a NEW balljoint, the joint is tight & stiff, so it doesn't spin real easy. Also the threads on the stud & castle-nut haven't had time to corrode. So you can spin the nut on without worrying about anything.
After a few years the ball gets easier to spin in it's socket - it's supposed to do this, but NOT supposed to get rattly-loose. Sometimes a joint is right at the point where it's easy to spin but it's got no sideways rattling looseness.
Now if you re-use a good ball joint, it might spin. All you have to do is press it's tapered stud hard into the tapered hole, so friction keeps it from spinning. Some cars you can get a small jack under the knuckle or under the control arm, depending on which way the BJ is oriented. Other times (upper?) you have to get creative with crowbars or C-clamps or something. If you're lucky the stud has a screwdriver slot or a socket for an allen wrench so you can hold it. Once it begins to get tight, then it sticks & you can continue to tighten it with a torque wrench.
After a few years the ball gets easier to spin in it's socket - it's supposed to do this, but NOT supposed to get rattly-loose. Sometimes a joint is right at the point where it's easy to spin but it's got no sideways rattling looseness.
Now if you re-use a good ball joint, it might spin. All you have to do is press it's tapered stud hard into the tapered hole, so friction keeps it from spinning. Some cars you can get a small jack under the knuckle or under the control arm, depending on which way the BJ is oriented. Other times (upper?) you have to get creative with crowbars or C-clamps or something. If you're lucky the stud has a screwdriver slot or a socket for an allen wrench so you can hold it. Once it begins to get tight, then it sticks & you can continue to tighten it with a torque wrench.
