with a 1.5 inch drop would more than likely WILL NOT need a camber kit. because the drop is so small, a simple alignment can normally correct negative camber.

I'm dropped with H&R's (1.5F/1.3R) and I just got an alignment and everything was fine. That was 2 years ago.

 

Too bad they don't adjust camber since it isn't adjustable unless you have camber kits.

 

My car needed a camber kit after the 1.5" Eibach pro-kit drop.
I had wear on the OE rims, I had wear on the aftermarket rims.

My suspension guy was un-able to adjust the non-existant rear camber adjustment. The down side for me was, Eibach hadn't yet produced a camber kit for the Eibach's when I installed them, I had to wait a year.

 

yea, my friend's 6th gen is pretty bad in the rear.

the 4th gens are bad int he front, and if you put a cheapy kit, the arms will bang.

 

eibach camber kits are rebadged SPC kits. look at the part numbers, they're virtually the same. but you'll pay more for eibach.

 

^ same deal with my ingalls styled anchor bolts. same p/n same box.

 

You can adjust both camber and toe on stock suspension. But depending upon how low the drop is, it may not have much of an affect which requires the purchase of an aftermarket camber kit.

 

I am looking at the service manual right now and for camber adjustment it says:

1. Check the camber angle.

Camber angle:
Front: -1d10m +/-1d
Rear: -0d45m +45m/-1d15m

2. If out of specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension parts.


It doesn't say anywhere that it is adjustable, just that it is measurable. Same with caster. Toe is the only thing alignment shops adjust when aligning a car because it causes wheel pull, worn tires, and unnecessary road noise.

 

do i have to scan a before and after alignment printout when i had stock suspension to prove that you can adjust camber? you can't adjust it enough to correct after a drop, but a little camber correction is possible.

 

Go to any shop that does alignments and ask them how they align the front/rear wheels. There is a certain amount of degrees the camber can be adjusted. If your drop is too low, the maximum amount of degrees that is allowed on a stock camber kit is not enough to correct the negative camber. That's when an aftermarker camber kit is needed.
Front Suspension Explanation
Camber F.A.Q.

For example
Positive Caster


Negative Caster


IFS SUSPENSION GEOMETRY GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Ackerman Angle
With a perfectly set Ackerman Angle, the inside front tire will steer more than the outside tire by just the right amount so the tires don't scrub during turns. An example of incorrect Ackerman Angle is when your tires screech as you turn into a parking lot, a result of the tire's dragging.

Anti-Dive
Anti-dive is a suspension's self-rising effect generated by brake torque applied on wheels. It reduces nose-dive under hard braking, making a vehicle more stable. The amount is determined primarily by the car's center of gravity height, wheelbase, and side-view swing arm (see below for definition).

Bumpsteer
Bumpsteer is the self-steering effect caused by conflicts among the arcs in which tie rods and A-arms swing. If the lower control arm and the shaft coming out of the rack-and-pinion are not parallel, the incorrect geometry will cause that wheel to turn when a wheel goes over a bump or through a dip. Simply lowering the rack-and-pinion 1/2 inch will drastically alter bumpsteer. It can also occur when the rack-and-pinion is not matched to the rest of the components.

Camber
Camber is the angle of the wheels when viewed from the front. You have negative camber when the top of the wheel is tilted toward the center of the vehicle. The opposite condition is positive camber. For most street cars, anywhere from 0 to 1 degree negative camber works fine.

Caster Angle
Caster angle is the side-view angle between vertical and the virtual line that connects the upper and lower ball joints. On dropped-axle suspension caster is measured by the number of degrees the kingpin and front axle are laid back from vertical; on IFS it is measured by the lean of the spindle. Increasing positive caster (when the spindles lean toward the back of the car) will increase stability at speed as well as the tire-contact patch during cornering. However, too much caster will increase steering effort. Stay within the IFS manufacturer's recommended setting, as deviating from design spec will change the tie rod height and cause bumpsteer.

Front-View Swing Arm (FVSA)
FVSA is the horizontal distance from the instant center (see definition below) to the center of the tire-contact patch. This length determines the rate of camber change and how much side scrub the suspension will have. Too short an FVSA will make a vehicle feel very unstable on the road. FVSA length should be at least 100 inches for street cars.

Instant Center (IC)
The instant center is a virtual intersecting point of suspension links, including the angle of the control arms and the centerline of the contact patch. This is the point around which the spindles rotate. This rotation point itself keeps changing its location as the suspension arms cycle up and down and change their angles (that is why it is called "instant").

King Pin Inclination (KPI)
KPI is the angle (number of degrees) between vertical and the imaginary line joining the center of the upper ball and lower ball joints. This is typically not adjustable as it is built into the spindle. The steeper the angle, the greater the self-centering effect. Too much KPI will result in high steering effort and poor tire-contact patch during cornering.

Roll Center (RC)
RC is the geometric virtual point that the body rolls around during cornering. Too low an RC will result in too much body roll. Too high an RC on IFS will result in self-rising (known as "jacking effect"), which unloads the tires and may result in loss of traction and control.

Scrub Radius
The scrub radius is the horizontal distance between the tire centerline and the intersecting point of the ground and the King Pin Angle. The lesser the scrub radius, the better, as long as it is not zero. Too much can cause instability under braking on wet surfaces, as well as increased steering effort and higher stress on suspension components. Scrub radius can be improved by using deep backspacing, which is why most new cars employ that kind of wheel design. Minimum backspacing for the front wheels on a properly functioning IFS system is half of the rim width plus 1 inch (5-inch back spacing for 8-inch wheels, for example).

Side View Swing Arm (SVSA)
SVSA is the horizontal distance from the side view Instant Center to the spindle centerline. This length, as well as the height of the SVIC, determines the amount of anti-dive. SVSA length and SVIC height also have an effect on ride characteristics.

Side Scrub
Side scrub is the tire-contact patch's lateral movement as a result of the suspension's cycling up and down. The less side scrub the better, as too much will make the vehicle feel very unstable. It can be minimized by carefully dialing in the car's camber during alignment.

Toe
Toe is the angle of the wheels when viewed from the top. When the front of both left and right tires are pointing toward each other, you have toe-in. The opposite is toe-out. Modern radial tires need zero to very slight toe-in