If you have a '90 model anything, then you need a conversion to R134a. You can easily tell if it's been converted by looking at the service port. If it has external threads, it's still set up for R12.

When I had my '92 Civic converted the system was evacuated, then there was a different oil used for the R134a. Some people say that changing oil is not necessary now. :dunno: Two adapters were permanently installed over the OEM ports to facilitate charging with the new stuff.

If your system has been open for a while where outside air could come in, yes you'd likely need a drier. If it's been closed, even if it's not been charged then you might not need it. The r12 drier will have a sight glass on it, but when using with R134a refrigerent, you disregard reading the bubble because it does not work the same. Simply put in the specified amount of refrigerant required for R134a, but don't just use the same as R12. (I don't know how much R134a stuff you'd need for your Accord, but that shouldn't be hard to find out)

Remember that you charge the suction side, which has the larger diameter tubing. It will have the smaller service port.

FYI, R134a will run a higher head pressure, so there's a minute chance that after you get set-up you could develop a leak somewhere in the system.

One thing to help keep the pressure down is to check your condenser to make sure it's clean (no leaves, trash)

 

Check out hondaautomotiveparts.com for price, I don't know offhand...

The compressor oil is different, the stuff in a conversion kit is chosen so it's compatible with the little bit that never drains out from the compressor. The oil that they put into NEW cars is different yet, so make sure you know which one. (I don't remember which is which).

I believe there should be a sticker somewhere in the engine compartment. If it says R12 then you use about 3/4 of that amount when you go to R-134a. Sometimes if it's been converted, there's a R-134a sticker over top of that original one. (Besides the fittings being different.)

 

Reciever dryer should be changed in two condtions, if the a/c system has been open for a while, and two if it's been over five years and you are opening up the a/c system for something, good idea to replace it then also. You are correct a desseciat bag is inside the reciever dryer and quickly absorbs moisture from the air, so work quickly to get it on the fittings and get the system evacuated as soon as possible (not days, hours at most).

The amount of R-134a (generic name called Suva) is usually no more than 80% the amount of R-12 (commonly known as the generic name Freon). A retrofit is NOT just taking out old oil (which is usually mineral oil for R-12, although I believe the old system used also POE...have to look at specs) and refrigerant and putting in new oil (usually POE for Honda's and Toyota's...or NippoDenso oil #8 as it is known). There is usually the requirement for a high pressure cutoff switch to be installed, to replace the high pressure valve (I think that's the name, I forget right now). Sometimes you may also need to install certain barrier hoses and a pusher fan, depending on the vehicle.

This is what I tell people, if your system was designed for one type of refrigerant, stick with it! Retrofitting, will decrease efficiency of the heat load removal from the interior of the car.

By law, a vehicle with an a/c system must have a decal underneath the hood somewhere, where a/c capacity and oil type is indicated for that vehicle. The Honda's have a silverary color decal and is usually just beside the top radiator support. That should tell you the type of refrigerant used, the capacity, and oil type. Per the Montreal Protocol of 1990, by the end of 1995, all production of R-12 was to be ceased, due to the chlorofloro compounds that cause ozone depletion. Honda's 5th gen accords and up, contain the new EPA approved refrigerant which is R-134a. There are blends out there and for those, they have special fittings so that you don't contaminate refrigerants.

If you live near Sacramento, CA and can wait for like three months, I can install a new reciever-dryer and vaccum your system and charge it up. You'd be responsible for parts and refrigerant cost, I think R-12 is $3.00 an oz...and that's damn cheap! Oh and for the love of God, please do not buy the store bought cans with sealer in them. They may work for a while, but it only makes it more difficult on the techncian to service your vehicle in the future should a problem arise in the a/c system.

 

There are threads on the connector but I was thinking they were for the cap. I bought a R134 hose and it doesn't fit the port, and I also have an old R12 hose from years ago and it doesn't fit either. I'm on the correct port, smaller one on the larger pipe (as per the instructions). I appreciate everyone's help and I'll get the dryer for sure but I have to figure out the hose issue now.

 

Sincerely thank you for the offer but I'm about 2,000 miles east of there.

 

R-134a connections are NOT threaded, they are "quick-disconnect" couplers. You snap them on and lock them into place, then turn on the valve atop each side.

If you bought a retrofit kit, it's SUPPOSED to have service port adaptors that you put atop the R-12 fittings, and they are supposed to remain in place for the duration of the vehicle life. If you're charging with R-134a, then you need those adaptors, return the kit if it doesn't come with it.

These are all service fittings that go atop R-12 service ports

Anyway, some of the latter years, just nearing the end of R-12 production, the fittings require an adaptor to the hose and yes it is a slightly larger diameter. I'd always borrow that adaptor from someone caz all the R-12 vehicles I serviced, where never a direct fit to the hose line, and required that adapter.

part #90005 is what I'm talking about

 

R12 was always so much colder than R-134....

 

A/c work should be left to a professional, there's alot of things you need to know that experience will teach you more than anything else. Like for instance, I've tried a couple times to convert the civic's with the small rad. on one side and the small condensor on the other side to r134a. No matter what I did it didn't work right. The original r12 condensor is too small to be effective with r134a.

You don't know even what's in your system, you would be best to take the car to a shop and pay them to convert it. You've done all the hard work already, we sometimes at my dealership will charge one up for and we charge one hour.

 

That is so true...but GM's a/c get pretty darn close and is the best I've seen out there.

 

Yes, I agree.

We (my bro and I) finally got my '92 Civic cold with R134a, but not before a lot of headaches, and he's a Honda tech. I was never impressed with the cooling of that car, even when it was R12.