:bowdown: did it turn out ok? Major props from me man, im one of those suckers who paid to had it done cause i didnt trust myself.

 

What price does suspension work run? I can't raise my car without a platform and I went to a shop to check price on lowering and he said it would run $600 to $800, not sure what all he was including but I don't want to spend that much. I was thinking items affecting horsepower directly, maybe other small $100 DIY items like a short ram intake or something.

 

Engine isnt worth dick unless you work it with lots of money. Even then it will need lots of time and you can probably spend less time doing a H22 swap on the car along with less money and be way more reliable as well.

As far as small DIY stuff, upgrade the engine grounds, get newer plugs and wires, check your cooling system including radiator and all fluids, check timing belt, run an injector cleaner, upgrade the interior speakers.......

 

Those small DIY stuff are mostly done, the car is in good condition. I got a new a boot and knob from the dealership yesterday and new logos and it was painted a few months ago. The interior has been taken care of, polished and all. The timing belt is fine and all fluids are fine as well. Speakers were upgraded about a year or two ago and they're pretty nice and a new receiver a few months ago too.

All those things are taken care of and I don't think I'll be putting in the time or money for an engine swap because I'll have to pay someone else to do it since I don't have the money to do it on my own not to mention the space which is why I wanted to do some smaller mods like the short ram on it but I don't know what else to do since I'm not very smart when it comes to performance parts. What other small things can I do to the car?

I'm not looking to make this a street racing car or anything, but something a little more fun to drive would be nice.

 

is ur car AT or MT...it can be quick but it won't be fast...it's light but not powerful...if u want some small/cheap performance...IMHO go w/ aem cai...dc header too if u want...don't even bother w/ exhaust

 

It's a manual

CAI cost a little more, around $200 or so for my car from AEM on ebay like this.

I searched on ebay for a dc header for an accord and came up with some different results. Some say "real dc header" and have a $290 or so buy it now price, while the ones that don't say "real" have an $85 or so price.

Expensive one
Cheaper one

Lets say I did the cheaper dc header and an AEM short ram, what else can I do if I want to keep price under $100 or so for each part? Also, just doing the header and short ram, what kind of hp increase can I expect?

 

bump ^^^

 

next day bump

 

OK, first off, it should not cost $600-800 to lower your Accord. That's what you'll get quoted going to a normal automotive repair shop, and that's based on standard, out-of-the-book hourly time estimates for replacing suspension X $65-80/hr.

Find a import specialty shop (AKA a "ricer shop"); we have about 6 in the Denver metro area in Colorado. I'm not sure where you are, but unless you're in the sticks, you should have at least a few that will charge no more than $200 to lower your car for you (most of the shops around here will do a Civic or an Integra for $100 or less, maybe a little more for Accords, but I don't see why - it's not any harder).

$200 or less (labor only of course) to lower a car is not bad, b/c doing it yourself you could easily run into a lot of problems caused by rusty control arm bolts whose heads snap off, or are rusted in place to the sleeves inside the bushings. You could also just f**k stuff up just reassembling parts wrong because you've never done it before.

In terms of HP from your basic bolt-ons (intake, header, exhaust), I would assume you'd get about 5-8 peak wheel HP from an intake, and maybe another 3-6 peak wheel HP from the header (either one, the real DC product or the copycat).

Adding a high flow catalytic convertor and a 2 1/2" or larger dia. exhaust would prob. net you another 4-8 WHP. But that is going to drastically make your car louder (which the intake and header is already going to do, to a lesser degree).

BTW, in theory you can make more PEAK HP with a short ram (assuming it's cold outside) vs a cold air system. The CAI usually gives a little better torque and response lower in the rpm range (4000-5,500) because of the longer tube tunes the power curve differently, but becomes a bit of a flow restriction at 6,000 rpm or higher. Come to think of it, that's not even an issue on a stock F22a - doesn't it rev limit at 6400 rpm? On a high revving B16 or B18C, it might be more of an issue . . .

Sounds pretty negligible for the $500-1000 you'd spend on all that, huh? Well, welcome to reality, vs. what the parts manufacturer will tell you you'll gain.

Remember I'm estimating wheel HP measured on the dyno, not estimated flywheel HP (ie, how the 125 HP and 140 HP figures Honda quotes for the F22a are obtained).

Is this worth it? Dunno, it's up to you. On a 3,000 lb car, even 20 whp gains is probably not going to have you scaring stock GSR's or Civic Si's.

After you've got the basics done though, you could swap in a bigger cam (pretty cheap on a F22a since it's just a SOHC as opposed to two on a B-series or H22) and gain at least 12-15 more peak WHP with a cam gear, a fuel computer/B&M adjustable FPR and some dyno tuning . . .

It's that old adage again - "How fast you want to go depends on how much money you want to spend."

Here's my follow-up question to you - "How fast do you want to spend your money???"

 

I'm not really thinking about money yet because $100 to get it lowered isn't much and $100 for a short ram and $100 for a new header isn't that much.

I don't have the money to get an engine swap since I don't have tools nor the money for forced induction. I do have the money to do mods on my own.

Where should I look for a new cam? If ebay, what should I search for and could you show me an example for my 91 accord on ebay?
What are some other mods other than CAI, short ram, and header that I can do at home?