i don't think it as 125 hp, that would be the F22A1, witch i do not have.

It's the F22A4 (130hp) or the F22A6 (140hp).

And by the way i'm talking engine power not wheel power.

Jodip.

 

huh? are you Hondapower? he dynoed his car with the F22A1..

 

no, i'm not hondapower, sorry. didn't know you where referring to his msg.

But do you know about the EXR(alb) Accord, power and torque?

Jodip

 

it should say on the block.. mine says F22a1

 

I just got the car, it doesn't say on the block, it must of fell out.

Jodip

 

Okay, for argument's sake, I pulled this off of kbb.com. I'll list these in this order:
93 10th Anniversary (LX stats)
93 EX
93 SE
91 EX
The 91 and 93 SE models have the same stats.

Bore x Stroke
1993:10A, EX, SE 3.35 x 3.75
1991:EX 3.35 x 3.74
Compression Ratio 8.8:1 (all)
Fuel Induction:MFI (all)
Valve Train :SOHC (all)
Valves Per Cylinder: 4
Total Number Valves: 16
Horsepower:
1993 10A: 125 @ 5200 RPM Torque 137 @ 4000 RPM
1993 EX, SE: 140 @ 5600 RPM 142 @ 4500 RPM
1991 EX: 130 @ 5200 RPM 142 @ 4000 RPM


Now then, can everyone guess the main difference between them? If you said: cylinder head and ECU, then you're right. Those are the only differences between the different F22 series engines. One could, in theory, convert an F22A1 to an A4 or A6. Its not unheard of for a vtec conversion to be done on one of these engines. Afterall, its the same block that the 5th gen VTEC Accords use. I read about it somewhere, but can't remember if it was on HAN or a different site.

If anyone has any correction or additions to this, please by all means, tack em on.

 

i think it looks good.
how much hp would u gain from a stick?
how bout polyutherane mounts? i have a borken front one and i want to DIY the front, left and right ones. would that actually gain hp?

 

You do know that the transmission doesn't actually make you gain horsepower, right? It's the gearing that could make a car faster. Most manual transmission vehicles when they are put on a dyno are started in 3rd gear. It doesn't hurt them, and is the equivalent of a 2nd gear in an automatic.

All polyurethane mounts do is create a firmer mounting surface for the engine. These are an advantage over OEM engine mounts, as they don't allow as much movement of the engine inside the engine bay, thereby allowing the engine to let the wheels spin instead of the engine trying to spin itself in the engine compartment. Go take a look at a car with broken motor mounts and have someone rev it up with the hood up. There's a ton of movement to it; the torque of the engine is making it move. After that, go look at a car with polyurethane bushings or a higher performance vehicle other than a Honda (ie: new BMW) and have the engine revved. The engine does not move inside the bay. By it not moving it is allowing more torque to get to the wheels, making the car accelerate (sp) faster. The disadvantage, however, is with the firmer mounting surface, sound of the engine/drivetrain is more noticable inside the cabin, as the sound travels thru the body of the car more with a firmer mount than a softer one that absorbs vibrations and noise.

For all practical purposes, I'd stick with an OEM one.

Now I know why my wife calls me such a car nerd.

 

yea, i know that the tranny does not affect hp but when racing, a manual would make up for about 10hp because the gearing is much diff and such.

 

are there any other ways u can tell a busted motor mount?...cuz my car makes this jerking motion when doing park to drive some of the time