b18b1 vs type r .. road course
Autocross. Roadracing, or Drag racing I will go turbo everytime. If the engine is set-up with the correct turbo match and and the right set-up BOV lag will not be a problem. Even in autocrossing a good driver will keep the engine in its optimum power band in any corner. One of the important parts of autocrossing is your ET from the start line to the first corner, autocrossers are always trying to make more power to reduce their time.
Originally posted by enginjim
Autocross. Roadracing, or Drag racing I will go turbo everytime. If the engine is set-up with the correct turbo match and and the right set-up BOV lag will not be a problem. Even in autocrossing a good driver will keep the engine in its optimum power band in any corner. One of the important parts of autocrossing is your ET from the start line to the first corner, autocrossers are always trying to make more power to reduce their time.
Autocross. Roadracing, or Drag racing I will go turbo everytime. If the engine is set-up with the correct turbo match and and the right set-up BOV lag will not be a problem. Even in autocrossing a good driver will keep the engine in its optimum power band in any corner. One of the important parts of autocrossing is your ET from the start line to the first corner, autocrossers are always trying to make more power to reduce their time.
Originally posted by mishima_beef
i was thinking more along the lines of a b18c1 instead of a type r because i will likely build the engine up... so no point starting with a more expensive engine but thanks for the input
will a supercharged gs-r.. (superchargers have no lag right?) be a good autocross car?
i was thinking more along the lines of a b18c1 instead of a type r because i will likely build the engine up... so no point starting with a more expensive engine but thanks for the input
will a supercharged gs-r.. (superchargers have no lag right?) be a good autocross car?
A typical novice for their 1st year or two will usually drive their car 5/10ths or 12/10ths. You will either under drive the car or over drive the car when you autocross. A intermediate autocrosser will be able to drive 7/10ths or maybe 8/10ths all the time coming within .5-1 second of the fastest competitior in their class. A great autocrosser will drive 9/10ths and sometime loosing the tail a couple of times throughout the year. Not many people can drive 10/10ths and know how to get themselves out of situations when they arise.
The best mod you can do to any car whether it be a 1995 Civic CX with 70hp or a 500 Dodge Viper is fix the driver. Too many people think mods will make their car faster at an autocross, which is not true. A typical $1000 coilover system will shave off about .5-1 second on a 60 second course. Upgrade the driver for about $225 for an Evolution School or $50 Novice School and you can shave off 4-8 seconds on the same course.
I'm telling you you will have just as much fun in a 1995 Civic DX hatchback in class HS (slowest class in SCCA). And actually your learning curve will be so much faster if you learn in a slower car, than if you plop down all this money on a fast car only to be owned by cars with 1/2 the horsepower you think you want. Plus I've seen too many guys who spent tons of money on their car and be put in the hardest class we have and then get frustrated cause another car with 70hp beat them in raw time.
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Originally posted by Sh*tBox
How many turbo cars have you autocrossed, and how many N/A? Because I would have to disagree with you there. Even a turbo system that was engineered from the factory to be completely transparent (almost no noticable lag in street driving) will lose to its less powerful N/A counterpart. Examples of this: N/A mr2s typically lap about 1-2 seconds faster than turbo mr2s, a Saab 900S will always beat a 900 turbo. Even automatic N/A mark IV supras can be a match to 6-speed tt's. (all of these are examples which I've either driven or ridden in w/ good drivers) And those are factory engineered turbo systems, designed for quick spool and close to emmediate power. Aftermarket turboed cars get worse from there. I'm not saying its impossible to do well in a turbo car... I've seen a few fast ones, but its a lot harder. And in all the RMD events, the first turn is typically about 30 ft from the starting gates. :dunno:
How many turbo cars have you autocrossed, and how many N/A? Because I would have to disagree with you there. Even a turbo system that was engineered from the factory to be completely transparent (almost no noticable lag in street driving) will lose to its less powerful N/A counterpart. Examples of this: N/A mr2s typically lap about 1-2 seconds faster than turbo mr2s, a Saab 900S will always beat a 900 turbo. Even automatic N/A mark IV supras can be a match to 6-speed tt's. (all of these are examples which I've either driven or ridden in w/ good drivers) And those are factory engineered turbo systems, designed for quick spool and close to emmediate power. Aftermarket turboed cars get worse from there. I'm not saying its impossible to do well in a turbo car... I've seen a few fast ones, but its a lot harder. And in all the RMD events, the first turn is typically about 30 ft from the starting gates. :dunno:
And that is why the WRX hasn't done so hot in DS compared to the Type R and the 330Ci
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Originally posted by CivicSiRacer
Ok there's something you have to learn about autocross that maybe you didn't read when I posted.
A typical novice for their 1st year or two will usually drive their car 5/10ths or 12/10ths. You will either under drive the car or over drive the car when you autocross. A intermediate autocrosser will be able to drive 7/10ths or maybe 8/10ths all the time coming within .5-1 second of the fastest competitior in their class. A great autocrosser will drive 9/10ths and sometime loosing the tail a couple of times throughout the year. Not many people can drive 10/10ths and know how to get themselves out of situations when they arise.
The best mod you can do to any car whether it be a 1995 Civic CX with 70hp or a 500 Dodge Viper is fix the driver. Too many people think mods will make their car faster at an autocross, which is not true. A typical $1000 coilover system will shave off about .5-1 second on a 60 second course. Upgrade the driver for about $225 for an Evolution School or $50 Novice School and you can shave off 4-8 seconds on the same course.
I'm telling you you will have just as much fun in a 1995 Civic DX hatchback in class HS (slowest class in SCCA). And actually your learning curve will be so much faster if you learn in a slower car, than if you plop down all this money on a fast car only to be owned by cars with 1/2 the horsepower you think you want. Plus I've seen too many guys who spent tons of money on their car and be put in the hardest class we have and then get frustrated cause another car with 70hp beat them in raw time.
Ok there's something you have to learn about autocross that maybe you didn't read when I posted.
A typical novice for their 1st year or two will usually drive their car 5/10ths or 12/10ths. You will either under drive the car or over drive the car when you autocross. A intermediate autocrosser will be able to drive 7/10ths or maybe 8/10ths all the time coming within .5-1 second of the fastest competitior in their class. A great autocrosser will drive 9/10ths and sometime loosing the tail a couple of times throughout the year. Not many people can drive 10/10ths and know how to get themselves out of situations when they arise.
The best mod you can do to any car whether it be a 1995 Civic CX with 70hp or a 500 Dodge Viper is fix the driver. Too many people think mods will make their car faster at an autocross, which is not true. A typical $1000 coilover system will shave off about .5-1 second on a 60 second course. Upgrade the driver for about $225 for an Evolution School or $50 Novice School and you can shave off 4-8 seconds on the same course.
I'm telling you you will have just as much fun in a 1995 Civic DX hatchback in class HS (slowest class in SCCA). And actually your learning curve will be so much faster if you learn in a slower car, than if you plop down all this money on a fast car only to be owned by cars with 1/2 the horsepower you think you want. Plus I've seen too many guys who spent tons of money on their car and be put in the hardest class we have and then get frustrated cause another car with 70hp beat them in raw time.
The fact of the matter is, my car sucks on the street, and I cant deal with that. But I'm not building a monster. I'm getting a stock B20Z and an LSD, and if I can improve MYSELF, I will be just as competitive in SM as any built and boosted monster.
CivicSiRacer is right. It's not about the car...it's all driver.
you can have the nicest possible camera with all the extras...but if you can't take pictures...it aint worth shit.
you can have the nicest possible camera with all the extras...but if you can't take pictures...it aint worth shit.
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Originally posted by asiandoood
CivicSiRacer is right. It's not about the car...it's all driver.
you can have the nicest possible camera with all the extras...but if you can't take pictures...it aint worth shit.
CivicSiRacer is right. It's not about the car...it's all driver.
you can have the nicest possible camera with all the extras...but if you can't take pictures...it aint worth shit.
:werd:
Originally posted by CivicSiRacer
Ok there's something you have to learn about autocross that maybe you didn't read when I posted.
A typical novice for their 1st year or two will usually drive their car 5/10ths or 12/10ths. You will either under drive the car or over drive the car when you autocross. A intermediate autocrosser will be able to drive 7/10ths or maybe 8/10ths all the time coming within .5-1 second of the fastest competitior in their class. A great autocrosser will drive 9/10ths and sometime loosing the tail a couple of times throughout the year. Not many people can drive 10/10ths and know how to get themselves out of situations when they arise.
The best mod you can do to any car whether it be a 1995 Civic CX with 70hp or a 500 Dodge Viper is fix the driver. Too many people think mods will make their car faster at an autocross, which is not true. A typical $1000 coilover system will shave off about .5-1 second on a 60 second course. Upgrade the driver for about $225 for an Evolution School or $50 Novice School and you can shave off 4-8 seconds on the same course.
I'm telling you you will have just as much fun in a 1995 Civic DX hatchback in class HS (slowest class in SCCA). And actually your learning curve will be so much faster if you learn in a slower car, than if you plop down all this money on a fast car only to be owned by cars with 1/2 the horsepower you think you want. Plus I've seen too many guys who spent tons of money on their car and be put in the hardest class we have and then get frustrated cause another car with 70hp beat them in raw time.
Ok there's something you have to learn about autocross that maybe you didn't read when I posted.
A typical novice for their 1st year or two will usually drive their car 5/10ths or 12/10ths. You will either under drive the car or over drive the car when you autocross. A intermediate autocrosser will be able to drive 7/10ths or maybe 8/10ths all the time coming within .5-1 second of the fastest competitior in their class. A great autocrosser will drive 9/10ths and sometime loosing the tail a couple of times throughout the year. Not many people can drive 10/10ths and know how to get themselves out of situations when they arise.
The best mod you can do to any car whether it be a 1995 Civic CX with 70hp or a 500 Dodge Viper is fix the driver. Too many people think mods will make their car faster at an autocross, which is not true. A typical $1000 coilover system will shave off about .5-1 second on a 60 second course. Upgrade the driver for about $225 for an Evolution School or $50 Novice School and you can shave off 4-8 seconds on the same course.
I'm telling you you will have just as much fun in a 1995 Civic DX hatchback in class HS (slowest class in SCCA). And actually your learning curve will be so much faster if you learn in a slower car, than if you plop down all this money on a fast car only to be owned by cars with 1/2 the horsepower you think you want. Plus I've seen too many guys who spent tons of money on their car and be put in the hardest class we have and then get frustrated cause another car with 70hp beat them in raw time.
what do u recommend i do with the car before autocross if anything? falken azenis? or absolutely stock?
Originally posted by mishima_beef
i dont know where to take my civic (setup wise..)
its frustrating.. one day im set on building an autoX setup.. the other day im set on building a fast drag car..
i hate this..
i dont know where to take my civic (setup wise..)
its frustrating.. one day im set on building an autoX setup.. the other day im set on building a fast drag car..
i hate this..
One word: LAG! Ever driven a turbo car? Turbo's shine on stretches where you can rip through the high RPM's.
Although you said there both equal drivers people make mistakes. One mistake will cause you or who ever to lose (or win if its the other person with the mistake).
Both drivers would have to keep the rpms high to keep the power when needed.


