If i were to do a swap B18C1 Swap.....
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 135
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From: Salem, OR
OK, so the motor is in and runs. I used 99 Civic SI upper and lower radiator hoses. The motor came with all the Type R mounts, but for a 97 Civic you need the rear bracket and the engine mount bracket for the driver side upper mount as well. Those are the only additional parts that cost about $120 from the dealer. Now the only problem I have is the VTEC won't come on from the ECU and it only goes to 7k RPM before it cuts out. According to the 97 Type R factory ETM the wiring is correct. I have heard that if the knock sensor is not connected the ECU has a fail safe to only rev to 7k? Could that also affect VTEC not working thru the ECU? I direct wired VTEC and the car drives like a bat out of hell. Any info would be great. Thanks.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 867
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From: Stratford, CT
I don't know about you but mine cuts off at the same rpm because I don't have the oil pressure switch connected. So it sounds like ur ecu is running in limp mode too. What engine codes are you throwin?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 135
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From: Salem, OR
Not sure yet on the codes, will know this evening. I didn't have a VTEC oil switch on the motor? According to the factory manual the ECU needs battery voltage at high RPM into the 31P ECU connector location #15, wire is BLU/BLK on the Type R USDM, not sure what it is on a swap harness. The 2nd O2 sensor is being installed today which should take care of at least one code.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 135
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From: Salem, OR
It is all fixed. No codes, no MIL light, just clean JDM Type R power.
What I discovered is the Type R from across the ocean doesn't have a oil pressure switch. The VTEC switch and knock sensor is the same USDM or JDM. The secondary O2 has to be installed after a catalitic converter so the ECU sees that there is one and it is working (which is the point of two O2 sensors). The reason you motor only goes to 7k RPM is because of the check engine light. It is a engine protection measure built in so the engine doesn't damage itself. Once you get rid of the light you will have all the power you can handle.
What I discovered is the Type R from across the ocean doesn't have a oil pressure switch. The VTEC switch and knock sensor is the same USDM or JDM. The secondary O2 has to be installed after a catalitic converter so the ECU sees that there is one and it is working (which is the point of two O2 sensors). The reason you motor only goes to 7k RPM is because of the check engine light. It is a engine protection measure built in so the engine doesn't damage itself. Once you get rid of the light you will have all the power you can handle.
KiMBO's Hubby
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,488
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From: San Hose Jose
the swap is not that difficult to do however:
make sure you work out all the kinks... it's not the actual install itself that is dififcult, it's working out all the smaller details such as tools, etc.
1.) get yourself a long breaker bar with a metal extension for lots of torque power to break your nuts, axel nuts that is :chuckles: (unless you have air tools.)
2.) get lots of EARPLUGS and GLOVES cause it can sure get loud when you hammer out your shiftlinkage pin.. btw, get a punch kit with a mallet and jack your car as high as you can on stands for more leverage.
3.) get a ball joint remover and take care to not rip up your bushings while removing the joint from the LCA.
4.) i used my stock harness off of the DX 96' hatch and wired the motor while it was out.. you just have to add some wires for the secondary o2 and vtec switch.
5.) prewire your second O2 sensor through the grommet underneathe the car by the shifter. you'll have to get a fitting welded on by a muffler shop if you don't want nice yellow lights on your gauges.
6.) the driver side mount is the acutal piece attached to your block. replace this wit the SI mount, which requires your to take off your timing belt cover.
7.) if you want A/C, buy the Si vtec DelSlow mount.
8.) get a 96-97 P72 ECU cause the 98+ are OBD 2.5 which I think has two extra sensors...one of them i fixed, but the other code was 71 or 91 or 76 ,if i even remember correctly, which was a fuel pressure tank sensor..our hatches don't have this sensor so you'll keep on getting a code.
9.) have lots of fun and pat yourself on the back cause you just saved about 5 bills. :thumbup:
good luck!!! :goodjob:
make sure you work out all the kinks... it's not the actual install itself that is dififcult, it's working out all the smaller details such as tools, etc.
1.) get yourself a long breaker bar with a metal extension for lots of torque power to break your nuts, axel nuts that is :chuckles: (unless you have air tools.)
2.) get lots of EARPLUGS and GLOVES cause it can sure get loud when you hammer out your shiftlinkage pin.. btw, get a punch kit with a mallet and jack your car as high as you can on stands for more leverage.
3.) get a ball joint remover and take care to not rip up your bushings while removing the joint from the LCA.
4.) i used my stock harness off of the DX 96' hatch and wired the motor while it was out.. you just have to add some wires for the secondary o2 and vtec switch.
5.) prewire your second O2 sensor through the grommet underneathe the car by the shifter. you'll have to get a fitting welded on by a muffler shop if you don't want nice yellow lights on your gauges.
6.) the driver side mount is the acutal piece attached to your block. replace this wit the SI mount, which requires your to take off your timing belt cover.
7.) if you want A/C, buy the Si vtec DelSlow mount.
8.) get a 96-97 P72 ECU cause the 98+ are OBD 2.5 which I think has two extra sensors...one of them i fixed, but the other code was 71 or 91 or 76 ,if i even remember correctly, which was a fuel pressure tank sensor..our hatches don't have this sensor so you'll keep on getting a code.
9.) have lots of fun and pat yourself on the back cause you just saved about 5 bills. :thumbup:
good luck!!! :goodjob:
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 24
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From: 4o8 the Bay
i'm trying my luck here as well, i have a 93 del sol and fitting a B16A w/hydraulic tranny. seems like the stock driverside mount fits but then the firewall mount would not align. what mounts should i get and which ones do i need, i need as much info as possible thanks.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 135
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From: Salem, OR
I have a 92 HB with a B16 that I installed with a cable tranny. I had to use a 91-93 rear mount bracket from a GS-R. I also went upscale and bought Hasport mounts, mostly because of the cable tranny, but they have just a rear mount as well.
