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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 09:41 AM
  #26  
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SUPER LAUBO
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From: San Hose Jose
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the swap is not that difficult to do however:

make sure you work out all the kinks... it's not the actual install itself that is dififcult, it's working out all the smaller details such as tools, etc.

1.) get yourself a long breaker bar with a metal extension for lots of torque power to break your nuts, axel nuts that is :chuckles: (unless you have air tools.)

2.) get lots of EARPLUGS and GLOVES cause it can sure get loud when you hammer out your shiftlinkage pin.. btw, get a punch kit with a mallet and jack your car as high as you can on stands for more leverage.

3.) get a ball joint remover and take care to not rip up your bushings while removing the joint from the LCA.

4.) i used my stock harness off of the DX 96' hatch and wired the motor while it was out.. you just have to add some wires for the secondary o2 and vtec switch.

5.) prewire your second O2 sensor through the grommet underneathe the car by the shifter. you'll have to get a fitting welded on by a muffler shop if you don't want nice yellow lights on your gauges.

6.) the driver side mount is the acutal piece attached to your block. replace this wit the SI mount, which requires your to take off your timing belt cover.

7.) if you want A/C, buy the Si vtec DelSlow mount.

8.) get a 96-97 P72 ECU cause the 98+ are OBD 2.5 which I think has two extra sensors...one of them i fixed, but the other code was 71 or 91 or 76 ,if i even remember correctly, which was a fuel pressure tank sensor..our hatches don't have this sensor so you'll keep on getting a code.

9.) have lots of fun and pat yourself on the back cause you just saved about 5 bills. :thumbup:

good luck!!! :goodjob:
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