Thanks for the input, Goat. I think I'm turning into OEM and not just getting what's the least expensive. I've stopped doing that lately, and it helps me hear what's going on in the car. I'm trying to get the car painted, but with situations like this, I need to put the money in the mechanics. I'll be looking for some NTN's.

 

If it's due only to the miles (you know this or just assume) and you can afford to do all 4 then I'd probably do the same.

My car had a bearing replaced by the previous owner not long before I got it (front passenger if I remember correctly) and they believed the cause was the fact that one of the wheel studs was stripped (I was told "bad"...er something) and so the car was driven with only 3 studs holding the wheel for quite a while.
Stud was replaced by a dealership either at the same time or before the bearing so no worries for the new one. Only 130k on mine so even if I could afford to replace the others I'd wait.


FYI to anyone not already aware of this: To make sure the bearings on a Honda don't fail prematurely I've been told you should tighten the studs on the rear wheels to the proper torque(if this applies to your car, chances are it's 79-80ft-lbs), or at least as tight as you can, before you lower the car to the ground due to the slight negative camber at the rear. If your e-brake works well it shouldn't be too hard.

That applies to the vast majority of the older ones but I don't know about newer cars or the SUVs/truck.

 

Thanks, Ra005e.

My dilemma has now shifted to doing more suspension upgrades while I have the car up in the air pulling things off. Gurus are checking on the car this week. The car started as a fun project, but is now a mule to get me from CSUN and back. It I should really do everything all at once, and for the first time in a long time, my TIME is the problem, and not my pockets. I just refuse to shell out the dough for shit I can do myself. I'll remember to keep the torque settings you gave in mind.

thanks for the input.

 

I got myself an Energy Suspension hyperflex kit to install this weekend. I'm having a local shop pop my front and rear LCA bushings. The kit came with a small amount of lube, but think I need more. Can I use this stuff? I have some sitting around.



http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=69

 

Bump.

Anyone well versed in lube?

 

NOOOOOOOO it will eat the bushings...

and sorry I didn't get back to you on your e-mail, everything there seemed on the up and up, though they charged you an arm and a leg for the inspection.

 

All good.

They're the only guys in-town I felt that I could trust. Jeff spent time with me on the phone. His first question was about my plans for the car. I knew it was a good sign. He told me that when I got all suspension components I could come down and he'd check off everything I got and / or needed to get, then be the guys to torque down my work and align. Good peeps.

I hit up Majestic last week.

44300-S04-008 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NTN CORP.) 2
90113-SA0-025 BOLT, WHEEL (NAGOYA RASHI) 8
90681-SR3-A10 CIRCLIP, SPECIAL (INNER) (73MM) 2
42200-SR3-A06 BEARING, HUB UNIT 2
51220-S04-003 JOINT, BALL (LOWER) 2
51225-SR0-A01 BOOT, BALL DUST 2
52338-SL0-003 CIRCLIP, CONTROL ARM 2
90653-SB0-000 CIRCLIP (40MM) 2
44348-SR3-000 RING, FR. KNUCKLE 2

I have a local shop in Marina Del Rey punching out the old front and rear lower control arm bushings, pulling out the old bearings, and installing them for $140 and a case of MGD The guy looks like he's straight off of Deadwood. :hs:

Should I just order some more of the ES lube? I thought this was going to be shipped by Friday, but I won't get it until Monday, so I'm gonna install everything the following weekend.

The best part of all of this, is that I got suspension from another hatch ridiculously cheap, so now all I have to do is take everything off the car, install the new. I can't have the car down for longer than the weekend, and a Monday morning alignment, so the extra $ was worth it.