After a couple years of waiting.......I get to start my GSR build
Your Powder Coater
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,463
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From: Girard, Ohio
got your voicemail bout the filter.. Congratz!! just keep a close eye on things, don't want any of those gremlin's to try and creep back into there.
mission accomplished, onword and upwords to phase 2! Best of luck to you man, glad you've worked through this mess, good times to come! I'm excited for ya.
mission accomplished, onword and upwords to phase 2! Best of luck to you man, glad you've worked through this mess, good times to come! I'm excited for ya.
I'm made of meat!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
If you need to hunt wires or pins from the bulkhead connectors or ECU pinouts... provided that you're still using the EG harness, there's a diagram on my... er... your old civic page in my sig.
Edit: THE LINK THAT'S NOT IN MY SIG.
EDIT X 2: The wiring diagram
Last edited by Jafro; Jan 24, 2009 at 10:28 AM.
Your Powder Coater
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 0
From: Girard, Ohio
Thread Starter
Driving a Turbo 2L Terror
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 0
From: Stafford, VA
I found the prob, My old O2 sensor was fowled by the rich map i was running before, so i put a new one in and its running great.
I'll be there, wither or not i will have the turbo is the question
I'll be there, wither or not i will have the turbo is the question
Last edited by HatchVX; Jan 25, 2009 at 12:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Driving a Turbo 2L Terror
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 0
From: Stafford, VA
Well just checked the oil filter again. At 967 miles no metal. Filled her back up with some Mobil 1 syn. and put on a S2k oil filter. Found one of the oil leaks. It was from the cam seals. The Ebay seal kit i got had bad seals, They were just about all the way out. So i found some around the shop and put those in. The next thing im checking is the rear main. Everything is running great right now. I getting about 24-26 mpg. It pretty damn fast without the turbo so i can only imagine how it will be with the turbo.
Thread Starter
Driving a Turbo 2L Terror
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 0
From: Stafford, VA
Well after i fixed a coolent leak i was putting the timing belt back one and then when i was putting back on the crank pulley the first thing i noticed was the hole was all wallowed out. Then i noticed that the TDC mark was a 1/4 inch off from the timing mark on the cover. After pulling the cover back off the timing marks on the inner crank pulley and cams are all on their mark. So when i was looking for another pulley i found a GREAT deal on a used Fluidamper. Got it for 175 shipped. the best part is that its the race version too. Which has a 40% underdrive on the alternator.
For those who arent familar with the Fluidamper and some info on it,
For those who arent familar with the Fluidamper and some info on it,
Rubber VS Silicone Fluid
Critical harmonic vibrations occur numerous times in a engine’s operating range. Stock rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive “tuned absorbers”, and work at only one critical frequency. In the case of a stock rubber damper, it is tuned for a factory engine’s critical harmonic vibrations. If you change the mass of pistons, rods, or the crankshaft, you change the natural frequency of the crankshaft assembly; therefore, the stock damper is no longer tuned to the new frequency of vibration, and you may be headed for early failure of expensive engine components. Dampers also create heat while they work, and rubber is a poor dissipator of heat. This heat and the exposure to the elements deteriorates rubber, causing it to crack and change durometer, which then leads to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, uncontrolled torsional vibration, and costly engine parts breakage.
Critical harmonic vibrations occur numerous times in a engine’s operating range. Stock rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive “tuned absorbers”, and work at only one critical frequency. In the case of a stock rubber damper, it is tuned for a factory engine’s critical harmonic vibrations. If you change the mass of pistons, rods, or the crankshaft, you change the natural frequency of the crankshaft assembly; therefore, the stock damper is no longer tuned to the new frequency of vibration, and you may be headed for early failure of expensive engine components. Dampers also create heat while they work, and rubber is a poor dissipator of heat. This heat and the exposure to the elements deteriorates rubber, causing it to crack and change durometer, which then leads to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, uncontrolled torsional vibration, and costly engine parts breakage.