Well after i fixed a coolent leak i was putting the timing belt back one and then when i was putting back on the crank pulley the first thing i noticed was the hole was all wallowed out. Then i noticed that the TDC mark was a 1/4 inch off from the timing mark on the cover. After pulling the cover back off the timing marks on the inner crank pulley and cams are all on their mark. So when i was looking for another pulley i found a GREAT deal on a used Fluidamper. Got it for 175 shipped. the best part is that its the race version too. Which has a 40% underdrive on the alternator.
For those who arent familar with the Fluidamper and some info on it,
Rubber VS Silicone Fluid
Critical harmonic vibrations occur numerous times in a engine’s operating range. Stock rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive “tuned absorbers”, and work at only one critical frequency. In the case of a stock rubber damper, it is tuned for a factory engine’s critical harmonic vibrations. If you change the mass of pistons, rods, or the crankshaft, you change the natural frequency of the crankshaft assembly; therefore, the stock damper is no longer tuned to the new frequency of vibration, and you may be headed for early failure of expensive engine components. Dampers also create heat while they work, and rubber is a poor dissipator of heat. This heat and the exposure to the elements deteriorates rubber, causing it to crack and change durometer, which then leads to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, uncontrolled torsional vibration, and costly engine parts breakage.