Thanks for that Tony

I went on another forum, and I'm inching closer to figuring it out. I'm gonna remove RP17 today, and ad the 1.4k resistor. They say you have to jump RP18, but there's only one soldered point on it, and there's nothing to jump. I never jumped my P28, so we'll see.

Wisha-me-lucka

 

umm.. :WishingLuck:

lol

 

Luck: When opportunity meets preparedness




Ok... Here's the deal. RP17 and RP18 are on the opposite side of where you'd find them on the P28. Same deal, however, they are SMD resistors.

For the P08, remove the SMD resistors @ RP17, and the SMD resistor just above where RP18 is written. Put a jumper across RP18 and viola!!!!

When I put the key in, turned it to II, the CEL went off before I even started the car. It's nice to say hfawk: to code 19

What I learned most, was to not be afraid to let the soldering iron stay on the points long enough to unhinge the resistors. I had the soldering iron in one hand, and a straight edge pushing up on the resistor ready for it to "pop-up" when unhinged.

The car actually feels better. It feels more responsive. We'll see what happens after a full tank.

~phew~

/thread:10q:

 

congratz bro!

 

I actually beat on the car a little today. It's not my imagination when I say the P08 works better than the P28 in a JDM d15b vtec. Not that it should be any surprise being that's the correct ecu. The car just happier, and hit vtec more fluid.

If it wasn't for HAN, I would have sold this car far before the swap, and would never have had this much fun. :bigok:

 

now Crome and boost that bitch h:

 

I just registered to finish my last 12 units @ Cal State Northridge for my BA. When I'm done with college and preparing for the GRE, I'm planning on doing just that!!!!

Thanks for the support, Lee