Why didn't you put the jack stands under the jack points? any reason?

 

notice how im under the car? that is why. if it were on the jack points, my big ass wouldnt fit far enough under the car to access the shift linkage, not to mention my car is lowered

 

you guys just rock plain and simple. can't wait for summer then im planning on rebuilding the b18c i just got.

 

OMG... not again... :P

Because a velociraptor fits much better with the car higher off the ground.



Sorry Eric... I couldn't help it. You have no idea how much work this is. 45 pages of google image searches just for you.

 

i just crapped my self on my new sheets.

 

Sweet! Lookin' good, Eric. Keep us posted.

 

:eek3: it speaks.


Looking good so far Eric. Can't wait to see the finished project :goodjob:

 

mwhahaha. hows the lexus comin josh? it better be boosted
the setup as of right now is follows.
b18b block
bored, honed, resurfaced, hot tanked and jet treated
golden eagle block gaurd tigged in place
cleavite bearings
eagle rods
wiseco 9.3:1 pistons
type r oil pump
golden eagle ls/vtec conversion kit
golden eagle head studs
password jdm intake gasket
rest of gaskets are all oem aside from GE head gasket
gsr cams
skunk2 cam gears
stock b16 head with valvejob

garrett t3/t4 60/63
tial 38mm wastegate
cc-fab chuck norris manifold
bov is undecided, probably hks sequential
jrc 8in FMIC anodized black
cc-fab intercooler piping
precision 1000cc injectors
crome pro

most of the turbo stuff has yet to be ordered aside from the intercooler, wastegate and the manifold is being made.
the goal is 400-450 whp. i think its possible with some good tuning.
for those of you going ls/vtec with a b16 head. it has been proven by numerous people that the b16 has better over all flow then the b18c1 head. the b16 head is damn near identical to the type r head from what i have been reading. the gsr head also yields a higher compression ratio so keep that in mind. and if u do get the b16 head, one must know that b16 cams kinda suck. the cheapest and most readily available upgrade would be cams from a gsr. there are very similar to crower turbo cams. the ideal choice would be a set of itr/ctr cams as they have very nice characteristics for boost believe it or not, but have a much higher price tag then gsrs. i got gsr cams and cam gears for 150 shipped. itr/ctr cams on average sell for over 300 for set.
evans tuning out of pennsylvania has dyno graphs that show the advantage of gsr cams over b16 cams. heres the results.
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=2341
once i get the rest of my parts, ill take some pics of the pile i have in my bedroom

 

:lmfao: hahahahah awesome.

 

I have to say... I hate my HKS SSQV. I can say in it's favor that it stays closed past 35 PSI, but it's the chatteryestest son of a fothermucker I've ever had to deal with. The repeated chu-chu-chu- ch-ch-ch-chchchchchchchatataterring that occurs at part-throttle when you're cruising around town isn't just annoying... It's hell on your engine mounts, axles, drivetrain parts and just about every other damn thing bolted to it; not to mention the people riding with you may lose fillings and develop spine injuries. Sure it sounds wicked, but so-what if it annoys the driver. It's the worst when you're passing at highway speeds trying not to look like a jackass. You don't have to blow everyone's doors off to pass, but if you can easily spool your turbo anywhere below 4000 RPMs, then even in 5th gear your turbo spools, and it starts chattering you to bits and peices unless you floor it. It sux royally. I have a highly-tweaked tiny little 50-trim turbo, some burly cams, and 3" turbo-back that love to spool it to 21 PSI before 3000 RPMs. This BOV is a problem for me.

What's paid the price for me 4x now in a year is my intercooler end tanks. Probably wouldn't be as bad of a problem for me if I had cast end-tanks instead of TIG welded 3/16" 6061 plate aluminum. Cast end tanks don't polish up as well, and yes we used the right filler rods. The pneumatic vibration inside the intake caused by that BOV has broken the welds on my end tanks yet AGAIN. It really sucks to have to pull the front bumper off of a freshly-painted car over and over again. There's no way that I can adjust the SSQV even though mine has an adjustment screw. HKS eventually proved it does nothing by design, and the new units don't even have an adjustment point anymore.

I wish I bought a TIAL BOV instead of the HKS and had my custom pipes flanged differently. When those things vent, they mean it. At part throttle, they leak without chattering. It has a working adjustment on it that lets you set it the way your car or the driver likes it.

What you're building sounds seriously nasty. I think you've developed a sickness. What I see listed should handle 320-330 whp at 18 PSI on pump gas... but that's a modest guess. I saw no mention of wheels and slicks. I hope you have those covered becuse radials are not going to work once you're done.