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Which brakes pads for my daily driver?

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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 11:23 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by CivicSiRacer
AEMs are street pads and do not need heating up. I'm thinking maybe you broke them in wrong or seated the pad wrong. I've never had a problem with cold stopping with AEMs.

I seriously doubt that, I broke them in the same way I break in all my pads, and as I said it was a problem stopping but it was the fact that they performed better once they had a little heat in them, which told me that the operating temp had not been reached for the pad, and break in procedures will not afffect that at all. I want a street pad the performs at its best as soon as the brake pedal is pushed, not after I use the brakes 2 or 3 times.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 11:25 AM
  #32  
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Default Ceramics

I go ceramics all the way combined on all my cars i have over 300,000 kilometers on them and i use ceramic brakes on all them, there almost dustless and are less likelly to warp yur rotors.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 01:35 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Solracer
I seriously doubt that, I broke them in the same way I break in all my pads, and as I said it was a problem stopping but it was the fact that they performed better once they had a little heat in them, which told me that the operating temp had not been reached for the pad, and break in procedures will not afffect that at all. I want a street pad the performs at its best as soon as the brake pedal is pushed, not after I use the brakes 2 or 3 times.
Well I just remembered that the AEM pads do not need breaking in like Hawk pads. If you use the same techniques to breaking the AEM pads like Hawk pads you screwed them up
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 01:51 PM
  #34  
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I put a set of Satisfied Pro Ceramic pads on my g/f's 03 EX coupe she had. ULTRA DUSTY, and the dust was difficult to remove. When she sold the car, I had to use straight Simple Green and a generic green scrubber pad (like Scotchbrite but not even close to being that aggressive) to remove the brake dust from the front alloys.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 02:22 PM
  #35  
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well, i tell ya what.. lemme slap on these AEM pads and i'll let y'all know. but i doubt i'll notice that much of a difference as to the bite of the pads when they warm up to operating temps.. Hence, daily driver...
Whats this proper breaking in you guys speak of?
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 07:36 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by CivicSiRacer
Well I just remembered that the AEM pads do not need breaking in like Hawk pads. If you use the same techniques to breaking the AEM pads like Hawk pads you screwed them up
Wrong answer, all pads need to to bedded in espically if you are not changing rotors and even with new rotors. You need to transfer some material from the pads to the rotors to get the pads to "grip" the rotors, With AEM and or auto-zone type pads I generally do a few 50 to 20 stops, and then drive around to let them cool. If I am using Carbotech , cobalt or hawk pads I follow the break in procedures they include with thier pads.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 08:37 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Solracer
Wrong answer, all pads need to to bedded in espically if you are not changing rotors and even with new rotors. You need to transfer some material from the pads to the rotors to get the pads to "grip" the rotors, With AEM and or auto-zone type pads I generally do a few 50 to 20 stops, and then drive around to let them cool. If I am using Carbotech , cobalt or hawk pads I follow the break in procedures they include with thier pads.
The answer I got from AEM was different. Hawks specifically come with instructions on how to bed-in the pads. AEMs don't. I deleted the email long ago, but AEMs do not need bedding in because they are a street pad. Hawks are more a racing compound. So yes Hawks and Carbotech need this procedure.

Material doesn't get "transferred onto the rotor" you are trying to get the rust-proof coating off the rotors and groove the pads to the rotors or if you will groove the rotor to the pads. Sort of like mashing peanut butter and jelly together on bread.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 09:21 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by CivicSiRacer
Material doesn't get "transferred onto the rotor" you are trying to get the rust-proof coating off the rotors and groove the pads to the rotors or if you will groove the rotor to the pads. Sort of like mashing peanut butter and jelly together on bread.
Sorry, but this is somewhat incorrect, sure breaking in pads and rotors is foing what you are talking about, however, having talked at length with the Owners of Carbotech (Larry) and Cobalt Friction (Andi Lin) about this, for brake pads to work correctly you must get a light film of the brake material on the rotor or it will not stop correctly or consistantly. Weather or not a pad comes with "break in Procedures" it is a good Idea to do a few hard stops after putting new pads on for this reason, so that they work good the first time you use them.

Brake in procedures are differnt for differnt pads, a lot of track pads requie you to get them very hot so they outgass, which modern pads only do once to get rid of some of the bonding materials and such, and something you would not what to happen going into turn 1 at high speed.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 09:57 AM
  #39  
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can u please keep in mind these are for daily driving.. there's no going into a turn at high speed. from what im trying to understand, this break in is just the basic stop and go for the pad to settle correctly. not hard breaking. there's no material transfer off the pad onto the rotor....
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 05:20 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by goon54
can u please keep in mind these are for daily driving.. there's no going into a turn at high speed. from what im trying to understand, this break in is just the basic stop and go for the pad to settle correctly. not hard breaking. there's no material transfer off the pad onto the rotor....
I am talking about daily driving and every brake pad needs a little breaking in to perfrom well, for street pads, weather you break in daily driving or do it after are installed is not a big deal, I always do a little brake check/breaking in procedure whenever I put new pads, weather it is on my car, my wifes integra or my grandmothers 300C. A few stops from 40 or 50 to about 10 is never a bad thing to do after you work on your brake system, and helps in most ways, and besides if someting is not right would you not want to find out before you are driving in traffic and need you brakes?
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