https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=180982
no one pays attention to my shit.

 

You might have blown the turbo seals and that's why you're still smoking. :happysad:

 

OOPs

 

You really need to have the PCV valve intact for the time being. If you don't, you will be pushing boost into your bottom end, which is just as bad as not allowing the pressure to release. If you want to allow more pressure release with larger openings in the block, read the link I posted earlier to HT and look at the picture. That's the best way to go cause of how large the fittings are.

hih dude.

 

hooked my PCV back up like normal & left my breether filter on my valve cover & everything seems to have cleared up.. i went city driving for over an hour, getting on it here & there & third sounds so nice when it breaks the tires loose! .. anyways.. i kno it was dark & all but i didn't see any smoke.. when i pulled it into my garage, i looked for smoke & it looks like it has cleared up as far as the smoke goes.. i'll find out for sure once it's running in the day light again..

the only problem that i'm still having is the nasty mess that the brether filter is making all over my engine & the amount of oil loss that is apparently comming out of it.. Should i put a catch can on here? i'd rather not stick the nasty oil crap into my pre-turbo piping coz i know it will make a mess & i'd rather not burn the oil in my combustion chamber...

 

I think that you have oil coming from somewhere else. I hooked a catch can up to that for months and NEVER had a drop of oil in it to drain out. If you wanted to know for sure, hook that pipe up to a catch can. See if you collect anything.

 

shit. oil is coming out of your breather filter? id hook up a catch can and so what happens. i hope you didnt blow your ringlands. have you done a compression check? i have a tester if you wanna borrow it

 

Oil at turbine outlet
Problems with the oil drain system can cause leaks to appear in the turbo. When oil leaks appear at the turbine outlet, it usually indicates a problem in the oil drain system. Something has caused the oil to build up in the bearing housing to a height above the seals. Check the following items and correct them to eliminate the problem. Make certain that the turbo drain port is pointing down at not more than a 35 degree swing on either side of a vertical centerline. See that the oil drain line slopes downward its entire length, so that there is no place for the oil to collect in the line. New installations, especially, should be double checked and any "sink traps" eliminated. Aircraft with scavenger pumps do not need to eliminate sink traps, as the pump will provide positive suction.

Finally, check the drain lines. Those made from a rubber-lined, fabric covered hose may not cause any problems at all after running several years in one location. Even though the exterior of the hose looks fine, the rubber interior lining has become brittle. When replacing the turbocharger at the time of engine overhaul, it is very possible that such a drain line could be disturbed and bent, causing pieces of the brittle rubber to break off inside the drain line, partially obstructing the flow of oil. To prevent this from happening, always inspect the drain line when replacing a turbocharger.


i got the from http://www.approvedturbo.com/troubleshooting.htm

hope it helps.

 

definately make sure you're runing a -3AN feed and not a -4 AN....
i would strongly advise to get this checked out

 

stealthmode performance and tuner toys uses only -3AN in all there kits. you dont live very far from Summit, they have all that shit. just take a trip down there. i dont think it should cost that much and 3ft of line should be plenty, then get some nice anodized fittings.i forget if yo were using a t fitting or tapping in off the block and leave the sensor hanging, but they make special block fittings too. brass t's can break right off