i found something that seems fairly reasonable (especially since they want 150 (parts & labor @ midas) here:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...art=Brake+Disc

should i go for oem, brembo, or does it really matter that much? any brands your recommend?

 

Brembo or Mountain have been good for me. Change your pads @ the same time, the Nissin (OE) pads are decent or PBR ceramic(organic) are good pads for everyday driving. For your rotors just make sure you keep your receipt, I've gotten rotors brand new that weren't balanced or weren't parralel. Meaning could cause vibration while driving (unbalanced) or pedal pulsation while braking (un-parralel). If you have your receipt then you can return them under warranty and get new ones.
Just remember to pump up your brake pedal when you're done assembling your brakes, or you'll have none when you first need them.

 

The new ones that I plan to put on were anodized to prevent rust in the cooling fins. The old ones have been down to minimum thickness for close to 8 yrs and I don't want to use them anymore and are quite rusted in the fins. I plan to get the new ones machined tomorrow and have them on by the weekend. That will be one less thing to worry about on my civic. I'll probably put on new screws after drilling out the old ones.

 

so after those screws are drilled out then i should just be able to pop of the rotor right??

 

You've got to remove 2 tight bolts that hold the calipers on. You'll need a long breaking bar for this. I'm going to put some penetrant where the rotor contacts the wheel assembly near the center. I'm then going to wack it off just like I did for the rear drums.

When it's off, clean off as much rust as possible on the wheel assembly and put on some high temp anti-sieze compound before putting the new rotor on.

Before attempting to drill out the screws, try this link:
http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/stuckscrews.html.

 

The screws do make it easier to hold the rotor while you are doin everything, but for me it is not worh the hassel to have to drill them out everytime I need to take the rotor off.
If you feel you need them, just go to a hardware store to get them

 

You can just use a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you work. You should also pull the slider pins out of the caliper carrier, be careful not to rip the dust boot. Clean the sliders and use Sil-glyde or similar hi-temp silicone lubricant on them before re-assembly. They are floating calipers, seized or sticky sliders can cause uneven braking.

 

dude, it took like 10min to drill them out. and that was the best part of installing the rotors (well, that, and finishing it )

I would only go to a hardware store if I knew the size/threading of the screws. Otherwise, $1 isn't much in the scheme of things, considering its about a $6000 car

 

If you have a drill, and metal drill bits, and a ride to get the new screws if you need them. I am just sayin, it is not worth the time, effort and money for something that serves no real purpose once the car is built My

 

yes to all three

I usually have a buddy around to help. God should have given us 3 hands :chuckles: