Originally Posted by swaggs21

D16Y8, Sleeved, bored, pistons, rods, arp head studs, new head gasket 3 grand

Turbo Setup: AFC Hack, Injectors, T3/T4 or SC61, DIY Piping, Intercooler, Filter, Other odds and ends (plumbing and all), $1500

16-18 psi of boost

Clutch and Flywheel, $400

Altogether, $4900 and I can guarantee that there won't be to many cars on the road that will touch it. And for a couple more grand, you could make one hell of a setup.....

I know it still needs drag radials or some sort, for this estimation, you will need to borrow from a friend h:

Originally Posted by Jafro

Dude, that's just so wrong. Less than 4% of (just) the turbo '95 model Eclipses and Talons crankwalked. Less than 3% of (all) 2g cars ever experienced it. Sure 3% of 864,000 units sold is a lot of cars, but it's not expensive or difficult to fix. It's 5x easier than replacing the timing belt on a 300z, and half as time-consuming. Saying that someone will crankwalk left and right because they have a turbo 2g is just as inacurate as saying Hondas suck or that all Honda owners are ricers.

This FEAR of crankwalk came from people sqeaking their wheels trying to get Mitsubishi to replace their 60k-80k mile old engines for free, and Mitsubishi should have helped them somehow, but didn't at all. So the stink got bigger and louder until people started believing that they ALL do it. It didn't help that many people replaced the bearings in the rotating assembly and then traded them in to used car dealers making someone else have to deal with the problem 1000 miles later because they didn't buy the warranty. You can't fix a crankwalked 7-bolt block by just replacing bearings or it WILL come back. But IT IS easy enough to fix... permanently. Once you 6-bolt swap it, it doesn't come back. The 6-bolt will hold up to over 600whp on a bone-stock rotating assembly, and you can find 4g63's in Galants, Hyundais, Eclipse, Talon, Lasers from over 10 years of production.

My 7-bolt has 138,000 HARD miles on it, and 10,000 miles ago when I pulled it down, I checked the bearings, bores and oil clearances... wish I'd left it all alone. Nothing was even worn, but since I went in that far, might as well replace everything. Now it's making 433bhp/384tq, runs 12.6@109 on V-rated radials and pump gas. If I ever blow this thing up, I'll swap in a 6-bolt shortblock for $450 and move on with my life. Crankwalk might be a very real and discouraging obstacle to some, but those people can just go live in fear and spend 3x as much to run a 13 with something else.

Running a 13.2 is not at all difficult with a stock turbo FWD Eclipse. All it takes is a boost controller ($30), Fuel pump rewire ($30) and a good clutch ($400). That should piss off anyone that's ever had to boost a Civic to beat a 14 second pass. You can buy 2 turbo DSMs now for less than the cost of a new turbo kit for a Honda, and anything pre-95 isn't likely to ever crankwalk.

EDIT: Overall, Hodas have a big weight advantage over DSMs so I fully understand why building a Civic up is so popular. If you must have your 4g63, there are ways around that... but swapping a Colt is not easier than swapping a Civic. I'm not a Honda basher, either.

I respect the Nismo guys for their patience. I can't stand working on Nissan V6's. Just a personal thing. Sorry.

Originally Posted by xprm311x

okay first of all, a 13.2 is nice, but with a little bit of knowledge of the free mods that get rid of some stupid factory restrictions, and a good driver, clutch, and a boost controller and a few other things.. you can put a good DSM into the high 12's easily, I have a friend that just had an ACT2100 clutch, straight UI pipe, MBC, K&N, and some free mods, and open downpipe he pulled a 12.8. and before you start calling people idiots, get your facts straight, as jafro said crankwalk was actually pretty rare it was just something that people feared alot.

I'm not saying Z's suck or anything like that, I actually wanted a Z for along time, but for the money you can get something A) faster or B) as quick and more reliable, lol. you can easily put a D series civic into the mid 13's with a decent turbo setup and a good tune, if you know what you're doing that can be done for under 3 grand... and it'll still be more reliable than either a DSM or the Z. and before you go calling me a honda fan boy... dont bother, all I wanted for a couple years was an AWD TSI talon, quite a few of my friends have owned multiple versions of this car and while they all had their share of problems (ranging from insignificant to serious depending on how well the car was taken care of) they were all pretty sick fast with a small amount of money put into them.

point being, for $5k you could have a 3z with very little mods, a DSM with quite a few mods and a timeslip that would probably destroy that 3z, or a honda that's probably just as fast, and more reliable, and still costs less in insurance and gas, lol :-P

oh and RWD is nice and all, but you throw a few grand into an AWD DSM, and put a good driver in it, and it'll blow most RWD 60' times out of the water

Originally Posted by InfiniteVTec

Note he said D16Y8... that's single cam vtec... that gets more respect on victory and a B16... since we're talking civics... that would do more damage too ;D