^^ well there you go... get a vtec controller and set your vtec to kick in alittle faster...

 

that still wont help.

 

VTEC controller will simply change the point that VTEC engages, that's it. VTEC is not nitrous spraying or a turbo making boost, simply a different set of cam lobes with more lift and duration. These cams were built to change over at a certain rpm point by enginners who know a lot more about cam design then we do and this changeover needs to be matched with an increase in fuel to keep from running lean. You really won't see a benefit to changing the VTEC point without first changing the cam to one that requires a different engagement rpm and using a dyno and wideband O2 to compensate for the fuel needs of the new cam.

I can hear the VTEC kick on and off on my '98 EX this weekend driving up through the mountains where you need to downshift a 1.6L into 3rd once in a while to get power to climb. I have an intake and exhaust so maybe that's why it's more noticeable.

 

arent you a little late in the thread to be hopping on Bang wagons? But thanks for providing me with the incorrect information. [/QUOTE] i wanna hop on a bang wagon just all chicks though no dudes yaeh a big ass wagon

 

Do you speak English?


Also , Andy, the lo to hi RPM change over is usually changed if there are different mods, like a manifold , i/h/e and internals, to make the most HP on a dyno..


Needless to say it most likely screws around with your powerband quite abit.

 

You'll see some gains with the fuel tuning aspect of something like a V-AFC and time on a dyno, hell, you'd probably see gains on a complete stock engine as they have different casting and tolerances because they are mass produced. You wire up a $20 rpm activated switch to move the VTEC point around, you won't get extra power by engaging it early, if so, why wouldn't Honda simply lower the stock engagement point.

 

floor it and you'll feel it