the original ones dont go into frame either, look at your helms manual. they go into like a soft body mount. its not something that can take a ton of stress.

 

hrmm i never noticed it just went into the subframe...in any case the bolts aren't the part that are taking the most stress anyways

 

agreed, but it was something a very good alignment/suspension shop warned me to be wary of, so i would almost have to agree with them. The worst thing that could happen is both bolts sheer off under a hard impact... that wouldbe traumatic, but id bet youd lose a decent piece or two of your underbody.

btw...you never noticed...do you do your own work?

 

what about on a eibach sportline/kyb-agx set up? (rear only)
I plan on getting the skunk2 set up for the front.

 

toe/ camber is directly related to modified height. the lower you go, the worse ti gets. my rear has got to be off like 3 degrees, (maybe even 4-5), minumum. my fronts were between 1-2 i would imagine

 

Yeah i actually did it myself....i just shoved the longer bolt in where the stock one was...didn't really look inside to see how far it went in. I guess i just assummed that it was safe since it was longer than the stock one so if it was gonna break the stock one would have already broken off before.

 

sheer strength near the head of the pin vs along the threaded parts will be much stronger, thats why using washers may not be that great of an idea. follow?

 

Yep i see what you're saying....i just got grade 8 automotive strength bolts and i've had mine setup like that for over a year....haven't had any problems yet.

 

lets go do some jumps

 

Already have Went over a hill a bit too fast....turned out to be very steep and i got all 4 wheels off the ground....DAMN it was scary. At least everything was intact after i stopped and checked it out....kind of rashed up the bottom of my front lip a bit but i got that fixed