jafro>>> awesome post dude!!! very good info!!! Thanks a ton!!! i am going to print it and spend some quality time with the civic staurday!!!! thanks man!

 

i followed your instructions... turns out the light was not blown... the light was not there!!! the dud i bought the car from is an unethical prick!

the only code was the iacv... i reconnected that and reset the computer... and no codes...

 

Do you still have the idle problem? If you do, I think I might know what it is. Have you checked your TPS (throttle positioning sensor)? Mine was geting a bad connection and it would go from 1300 down to 500 and back and fourth.... It never gave me a code, I just cleaned the contact points on the connector and it fixed it, also, you may want to check if any of your sensors are gunked up.... That can cause bad readings....

 

yes i still have the problem i will go check the tps connector right now

 

This is more common than you think. It's completely legal for car owners to disable systems in a car. They're supposed to tell you that they've done so when they sell it, but nobody ever does, and there's no law that protects the buyer from such things.

People used to come into my cousin's shop and request him to remove dash bulbs from systems like ABS, SRS, etc... because Virginia State law requires that those lights cannot be on when performing the state safety inspection. Sometimes a $1200 car will come in with a $3000 ABS problem and the owner will choose not to fix the it. If the light is NOT on, the car will pass whether the system works or not because the law is not specific outside of that light. Same goes for Check Engine Lights, too. The owner of the car, or the mechanic may remove the light. The mechanic WILL MOST CERTAINLY require the car owner to sign a waiver, releasing them from liability for doing so. It's all perfectly legal.

Avoid this happening to you by first sitting in the car you're looking at. Don't let the owner start it for you. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position without starting it. All the idiot lights (except the signals) WILL light up for about 5 seconds if they work because every car has a bulb-diagnostic and self-check mode when the ECU sees power. If a light doesn't light up, beware. Could just be a burned out bulb, but if it's a major system that's not working, make sure the "bulb" is fixed before you show them a penny.

 

Make sure your coolant is full. If the coolant drops below the thermo sensor, your car will run like absolute crap. There are two of them on the side of the head. If you disconnect the coolant sensor that the ECU uses, it will stall within a second. If you disconnect the other coolant sensor, the cooling fan will cut off (provided that it's on when you unplug it).

Other than that, if your idle is high, but it has stabilized... you need to check the vacuum system for leaks. The best way to do that on a NA car is by ear. Listen for hissing at idle with all of the electrical stuff inside the car (AC, blower fans, radio, etc...) off. If you don't hear anything hissing, LOOK all over the intake manifold for loose or missing vacuum lines or hard/dry-rotted vac hoses. Replace those. There's a vacuum diagram on the underside of your hood.

If you can't find anything abnormal around those areas, spray carb cleaner on the intake manifold flange where it bolts to the head, your injector seals, throttle body gasket. If your idle speed changes up or down as a result of this, you've got a vacuum leak that's allowing more into the engine than it thinks it's supposed to have, and that's what's causing your wonky idle.

If your intake manifold is leaking, the part to fix it is a cheap $5 part, but the labor certainly isn't. Sometimes people sell cars that have this problem because many mechanics charge about 8 hours of labor to fix it. It's not the easiest place to work on, but there are much worse cars to do this job on than a civic, that's for sure. I could do a civic in 2 hours, but I've done it before.

 

Are the ones for the delsol and civics interchangeable (92-95)?

 

the only hissing i am getting is from the little hole on the lef of the throttle
body... when i plug that off every thing goes to normal. no crazy idle, no other hissing.

it is about at the 8:30 clock position

 

sounds like a vacuum leak to me. there should NOT be a random hole on your tb sucking in air. something goes there.

and if you guys actually read the "Sticky: Online Resources" at the top of this forum, you would see EXACTLY how to check CEL codes, and a listing for all of the codes.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php
http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/05.php

 

the hole is not a random hole... it is on the inside of the TB before the butterfly
valve... nothing goes there... it is where the iacv suck air...

for some reason my iacv is just sucking way too mucha air....