uh-oh! i broke trailing arm- lca bolt
Push to shock!
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,583
Likes: 0
From: Palo Alto, CA
Originally Posted by docmanakos
Polyurethane bushings are horrible, they squeak all the time, they make your ride much, much harder, and do not make your handling better. Putting firmer less deflectable bushings have absolutely nothing to do with the three most important things concerning handling. Adhesion to the road, which is determined by your tires. Roll and rebound, which is determined by your shocks, swaybars, springs, suspension geometry. sprung and unsprung weight. Suspension balance, this is an area that very few of the "bolt on" enthusiast know much if anything about.
Putting in firmer bushings and subframe connectors, or strut tower braces, do nothing unless your suspension is so firm that now all the stresses and looseness in your suspension is transfered and due to those area's (the weak link the the chain concept). Just because the race only cars have it doesn't mean it's good for you.
Docmanakos@aol.com
Putting in firmer bushings and subframe connectors, or strut tower braces, do nothing unless your suspension is so firm that now all the stresses and looseness in your suspension is transfered and due to those area's (the weak link the the chain concept). Just because the race only cars have it doesn't mean it's good for you.
Docmanakos@aol.com
I'm made of meat!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Match the threads of your bolt with a grade 8 nut, and weld it back on there. I suppose you could just clamp a nut back down on it and ride, but I'd be concerned about it backing off. I'd weld it.
it's my D in a B
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 24,787
Likes: 1
From: Your Mom's House
Originally Posted by docmanakos
Polyurethane bushings are horrible, they squeak all the time, they make your ride much, much harder, and do not make your handling better. Putting firmer less deflectable bushings have absolutely nothing to do with the three most important things concerning handling. Adhesion to the road, which is determined by your tires. Roll and rebound, which is determined by your shocks, swaybars, springs, suspension geometry. sprung and unsprung weight. Suspension balance, this is an area that very few of the "bolt on" enthusiast know much if anything about.
Putting in firmer bushings and subframe connectors, or strut tower braces, do nothing unless your suspension is so firm that now all the stresses and looseness in your suspension is transfered and due to those area's (the weak link the the chain concept). Just because the race only cars have it doesn't mean it's good for you.
Docmanakos@aol.com
Putting in firmer bushings and subframe connectors, or strut tower braces, do nothing unless your suspension is so firm that now all the stresses and looseness in your suspension is transfered and due to those area's (the weak link the the chain concept). Just because the race only cars have it doesn't mean it's good for you.
Docmanakos@aol.com
You also don't seem to understand the most detrimental effect of bushing deflection. As you mentioned, adhesion to the road is determined by the tires... and its your allignment that allows the tires to do their job, determining how much of the tire is in actual contact with the road. When your bushings deflect during hard cornering, your suspension geometry changes significantly. When you corner hard (especially if you have good tires), stock--and especially worn-- bushings can deflect up to ~8mm. This deflection results in a slight change of suspension geometry, adding positive camber to the outside tires (those doing the most work). If you've ever done an allignment or messed with a camber kit, you know that 8mm can make a huge difference. With said squishy bushings, you may have zero static camber, but mid-corner you actualy have positive one (or more) degrees camber, which would make any tire hard-pressed to grip worth a damn.
By minimizing bushing deflection (essentially holding the suspension geometry stable), polyurethane bushings make more efficient use of the tires, maintain dynamic allignment (i.e., keep the allignment of a moving car where you set it when it was still), and isolate suspension movement, making better use of the springs and dampers. Some bushing replacements, like Orijin Motorsports, actually eliminate bushing deflection alltogether with solid a-arm bushings and front LCA spherical bearings.
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 28,282
Likes: 0
From: michigan
Originally Posted by white_n_slow
you, sir, are a sissy.
You also don't seem to understand the most detrimental effect of bushing deflection. As you mentioned, adhesion to the road is determined by the tires... and its your allignment that allows the tires to do their job, determining how much of the tire is in actual contact with the road. When your bushings deflect during hard cornering, your suspension geometry changes significantly. When you corner hard (especially if you have good tires), stock--and especially worn-- bushings can deflect up to ~8mm. This deflection results in a slight change of suspension geometry, adding positive camber to the outside tires (those doing the most work). If you've ever done an allignment or messed with a camber kit, you know that 8mm can make a huge difference. With said squishy bushings, you may have zero static camber, but mid-corner you actualy have positive one (or more) degrees camber, which would make any tire hard-pressed to grip worth a damn.
By minimizing bushing deflection (essentially holding the suspension geometry stable), polyurethane bushings make more efficient use of the tires, maintain dynamic allignment (i.e., keep the allignment of a moving car where you set it when it was still), and isolate suspension movement, making better use of the springs and dampers. Some bushing replacements, like Orijin Motorsports, actually eliminate bushing deflection alltogether with solid a-arm bushings and front LCA spherical bearings.
You also don't seem to understand the most detrimental effect of bushing deflection. As you mentioned, adhesion to the road is determined by the tires... and its your allignment that allows the tires to do their job, determining how much of the tire is in actual contact with the road. When your bushings deflect during hard cornering, your suspension geometry changes significantly. When you corner hard (especially if you have good tires), stock--and especially worn-- bushings can deflect up to ~8mm. This deflection results in a slight change of suspension geometry, adding positive camber to the outside tires (those doing the most work). If you've ever done an allignment or messed with a camber kit, you know that 8mm can make a huge difference. With said squishy bushings, you may have zero static camber, but mid-corner you actualy have positive one (or more) degrees camber, which would make any tire hard-pressed to grip worth a damn.
By minimizing bushing deflection (essentially holding the suspension geometry stable), polyurethane bushings make more efficient use of the tires, maintain dynamic allignment (i.e., keep the allignment of a moving car where you set it when it was still), and isolate suspension movement, making better use of the springs and dampers. Some bushing replacements, like Orijin Motorsports, actually eliminate bushing deflection alltogether with solid a-arm bushings and front LCA spherical bearings.
wned:
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
yea the rear lower lca for civics/integras are known to break regardless. the only way to do it easiest is a press... Drilling take alot of constant power and hella expensive concrete bits or titanium ones. Normallly it just breaks were it gos into your strut. I have yet to see one break on the subframe or underneath the disk. The bolt is very strong and are all the same and are 12+ dollars at honda! To me the best way of doing it is a press and if your bushings are messed up just get used lca's from the junkyard .. some are prettty good .
