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Leaning; bad?

Old Jul 20, 2004 | 10:46 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by .RJ
Absolutely do not used a fixed back seat and harnesses without a rollbar.
I'm not doubting you just want clarification as to why. Is it because of the issue with the harness not being attached properly without a rollbar or does it have to do with the roof collapsing while your stuck upright?... just wondering???
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 12:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by h22avid
I'm not doubting you just want clarification as to why. Is it because of the issue with the harness not being attached properly without a rollbar or does it have to do with the roof collapsing while your stuck upright?... just wondering???
Yes that is correct. Without a roll bar your head becomes the roll bar with a harness on. Even without the upright seat.
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 06:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DakarM
the effect is minimal.
really?

so how does stiffer suspension help cornering speeds?
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 08:34 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ED9man
really?

so how does stiffer suspension help cornering speeds?
A stiffer front (using springs) will prevent the front end from diving too much which can take off precious time. A stiffer rear will help get the car to rotate or oversteer.
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 09:09 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ED9man
really?

so how does stiffer suspension help cornering speeds?

What Mike said and quick rebound seems to be more important, at least in autox than stiff compression.

I don't remember who but this guy was at the nationals one year in the BS with his M Coupe. Stock springs with tons of body roll. He was cornering hard enough to actually lift up the inside FRONT wheel on some corner exits.
I wish I knew where I saved that pictures.
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 03:04 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ED9man
so how does stiffer suspension help cornering speeds?
This was already addressed in this thread....
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 02:03 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CivicSiRacer
A stiffer front (using springs) will prevent the front end from diving too much which can take off precious time. A stiffer rear will help get the car to rotate or oversteer.
unfortunately, my friend found out the hard way that stiffer springs can go both ways.. too soft affects braking by putting too much load on the front tires and letting only 2 wheels do the job of slowing the vehicle.. but too stiff affects it as well. my friend bought some 650 lb. springs in the front for his m3.. that plus the -3.6 front camber has increased his braking zone.. enough weight needs to transfer to the front to push the tires down and increase contact.. it's finding the correct balance that's difficult..

rebound is also important to auto-x.. i learned a great deal tuning my friend's m3 since the koni yellows are rebound adjustment only.. having played around with it, it's been helping me tune the s2k's rebound more efficiently.. quicker rebounds in the rear allow the quick weight transitions allowing the tires to grip soon.. i found that generally stiffer rebound settings in the front, and quicker rebounds for the rear work well for rwd.. while vice versa for fwd..

anyone want to comment on rebound settings or make any corrections? i haven't talked to as many people about playing with rebound.. so far most of my knowledge has come from experimenting with trial and error..
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 05:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by syclone
unfortunately, my friend found out the hard way that stiffer springs can go both ways.. too soft affects braking by putting too much load on the front tires and letting only 2 wheels do the job of slowing the vehicle.. but too stiff affects it as well. my friend bought some 650 lb. springs in the front for his m3.. that plus the -3.6 front camber has increased his braking zone.. enough weight needs to transfer to the front to push the tires down and increase contact.. it's finding the correct balance that's difficult..

rebound is also important to auto-x.. i learned a great deal tuning my friend's m3 since the koni yellows are rebound adjustment only.. having played around with it, it's been helping me tune the s2k's rebound more efficiently.. quicker rebounds in the rear allow the quick weight transitions allowing the tires to grip soon.. i found that generally stiffer rebound settings in the front, and quicker rebounds for the rear work well for rwd.. while vice versa for fwd..

anyone want to comment on rebound settings or make any corrections? i haven't talked to as many people about playing with rebound.. so far most of my knowledge has come from experimenting with trial and error..

yep i agree with the above. my autox mentor in his S54 m coupe with GC koni dual setup has the rebound crank up almost all the way but the compression is get to the first setting (softest).
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 12:44 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by syclone
my friend bought some 650 lb. springs in the front for his m3.. that plus the -3.6 front camber has increased his braking zone.. enough weight needs to transfer to the front to push the tires down and increase contact.. it's finding the correct balance that's difficult.
Just to clarify, spring rate does not affect the amount of weight transfer, just where it goes.
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