I've been thinking of going with an adjustable prop valve for a long time, and finally started looking at them. Seeing a Wilwood for about $40, I'm thinking of doing it. But I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them, and what kind of plumbing changes I'd have to do. I'm guessing I'd have to reflare a ton of lines and use different sized fittings, but I may be wrong. Any help would be awesome.

 

I think for the most part, its trial and error. Finding the perfect brake balance depends on the driver and his/her habits. What brake setup do you have to validate an adjustable pv? just curious.

would the rear rotors warp easier being solid and having a smaller pad clamp harder? i dunno. bump cause i want to know too..... 40 bux isnt bad for a pp at all. i for a stockie for around 20 bux :P

 

It is. The settings are trial and error and rebuilding your lines can be scary trial and error.

I still blame the proportioning valve and the work that was done associated with its installation for Corey's dramatic brake failure, which failure cost him the H2 championship for '03.

Back when a bunch of us were autocrossing Porsche 914-6's (damn, I'm old), it was very easy because the Porsches came with an OEM proportioning valve and after a while it was circulated among the cognoscienti just how many times you had to turn the screw for the brakes to be perfectly balanced for four-wheel lockup w/a 200-lb person in the driver seat, 1/2 turn on the torsion bar screws and a specific spring set in the rear, and Konis all the way 'round.

There doesn't seem to be any such detailed information available to Honda drivers, and unless you really know what you're doing, I'd consider it more dangerous than it's worth.

IMHO, of course, and without knowing anything about your mechanical expertise and what kind of car you're driving.

In Corey's case, he was slowing a 2600# Prelude from 148 to 45 to try to make Turn 1, so perhaps it seems relatively less dangerous on a 50 mph autocross course...but it still sounds scary to me.

 

There's a thread on www.sccaforums.com in the STS/STX forum that might be interesting reading for you.

 

I guess I was more worried about the installation than anything. I was wondering what size/type fittings they have on them. Maybe a better question for the company that makes them. The tuning of it is not the problem. My justification for it? I started with a Del Sol S with drums in the rear, and I'll be throwing on the disks from my Si parts car, it already has teg brakes in the front, and I will most likely be moving up to prelude vtec brakes in the front. That, and I'm just completing my engine. D16z6 with a t3 that should be pushing about 15-20lbs. I'm not one to get an engine all hopped up and forget how to stop. If I'm hitting 130+ on a straight, and need to haul my ass to a stop before turn 1, I don't want to be braking half way through the straight just to have controlled braking.

 

lol, good call, but with the del sol's rear so light, would there really be more grip in the rear? (tires/ground/braking)

after light weight-reduction my friend could lift my rear quarter panel off the ground enough to fit a cinder block under the wheel. O_o

isnt the weight balance like, 57:43 front bias?

 

Something stupid like that... I was planning on lightening up the rear brakes a little, cause last season I was having problems with the rear getting light going into hard turns and the rears would lock up at times...