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Upgrading brakes

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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 11:13 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by drumsy
Especially when one is on it. :thumbup:
I wish I had some money to do some more HPDEs and get my competition license. I hate being broke.
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 03:02 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by CivicSiRacer
I wish I had some money to do some more HPDEs and get my competition license. I hate being broke.
Come work... work 2 get 1 free I believe.
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 03:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Solracer
Come work... work 2 get 1 free I believe.
i've always wanted to do corner work (get free lunch!)...but don't have the time with a wife and young child
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 06:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jaje
i've always wanted to do corner work (get free lunch!)...but don't have the time with a wife and young child
That is my other problem My daughter is 15 months old and I love her to death Never spent a weekend away without her
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Old Mar 4, 2004 | 04:07 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Solracer
Come work... work 2 get 1 free I believe.
I've noticed that BSR/Summit Point takes really good care of its workers, by the way.

If you're an instructor for them, you get an ungodly amount of free seat time for helping out.
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 08:55 AM
  #26  
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I also agree with blanks. More surface area = more braking power. Start to take away material and you have less surface, which equals less friction, which equals more heat put into the rotor.
Friction is independant of surface area.

Drilling and slotting takes away mass in favor of more surface area. (not swept area, which you are describing. Which is the area that the pad touches the rotor). Mass is what stores heat, more mass equals more thermal storage. So you are sacrificing thermal storage for slightly better cooling. (among other things like duribility, and imo, safety) . It is a balance. If you are looking for better cooling, getting a larger rotor would increase mass and surface area, and is a better choice in my book.
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 10:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MrFatbooty
Just so's ya know, the Si hatch has the smaller 9.5" front discs from the non-EX Civics and the same rear discs as the Integra. The EX, Integra and '99-'00 Si have 10.4" front discs. You want a prop valve from one of those cars if that's the brake setup you're going to use.

integra/civic si (ek)/Del sol Vtec

use 10.2" rotors

rotors:
larger surface area does provide for better grip. but slotted/cd rotors were originally used to vent excess gas pockets that built up between the rotor and pads. (which arent seen in many of todays new brake pads). the most cost effective upgrade would be to go to integra (and other mentioned above) spec. If you want really good braking power and good cooling, get the itr upgrade. grind about 3-4mm off the caliper bracket to give them the correct offset. then redrill a pair of itr rotors. if you want even better than that.... grind the same off, and get nsx calipers paired with acura legend (Gs?) rotors. much thicker :P

proportion valve:
4040 proportion valve for non abs cars. found on:
90-93 integras w/ rear disk
94 integra rs w/out abs
90-93 accord wagon (or whichever was equiped w/ rear disk)

misc:
to aid in braking power it might be a good idea to also look at the brake master cylinder. more fluid displacement for larger calipers make it easier to push the piston in a brake system. a 15/16" mc would be a good upgrade wiht these brakes. or 1"mc for those abs guys out there.
also brake boosters are really easy to replace at the same time. brake boosters arent abs specific. but non abs mc's have 2 steel lines going to them and one resevoir dump. the abs has 3 lines (and 2 resevoir dumps?) and lastly, take a look at fluids. DOT3 boils at a lower temp than DOT4. you can use DOT4 brake fluids or that ATE superblue i hear does wonders.

all these when working together make for a rather good brake setup.

i guess in conclusion:

While larger brakes up front and a rear disk swap is great. You might want to consider using the other components found in a higher end brake system. Blank rotors (when BROKEN IN PROPERLY) can provide excellent braking grip compared to slotted and cross drilled.

list of stuff that i used for my brake setup:
15/16" non abs mc (jdm itr) = ~$60
JDM ITR Brake Booster = ~ $50
Knuckles (Civic si [ek]) = ~$80
4040 Proportion valve = ~$15 (junk yard)
Rear Disc Brake assembly = ~$175
Brembo blank rotors = ~$70
AXXIS metal master pads = ~$60 (didnt like these at all)
Integra Calipers = ~$30
Goodridge g-stop ss lines = ~$100
----------------------------------------
TOTAL roughly $640 give or take 50 bux

sorry to post whore, if anyone has anything to add or correct please do so. i'm not perfect but just wanted to give my emperiences/thoughts
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 10:17 AM
  #28  
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OT: does anyone know where one could get an itr rear brake upgrade? the itr uses 11" front rotors and 10.1" rears

example of front itr rotors compared to stock 9.5"





example of itr rears compared to stock del sol vtec/integra





nsx rotors/calipers. notice thickness
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 01:48 PM
  #29  
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IS BeaveRun cool-you bet. Remember that they have 3 different activity areas. A WKA kart track, huge skid pad and the 1.6 mile-but soon to be alomst 3-road course. The big Honda events of the Spring are the NASA event on June 5-6 and the same weekend the they host the National Prelude Meet. Come on out and have a great time with us.
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 02:03 PM
  #30  
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Actually, only the 92-95 SI and EX coupes with ABS got the 10.2" brakes. Non-ABS EG SIs got the 9.5 inchers.
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