v6_accord_jerz

Ok car audio forum is slow and need anwers ASAP. I can't get my rear speakers and sub to work. I've tried EVERYTHING and spent literally the last 5 hours trying to make it work.

I have a the power wire running to the back to a distribution block. One power wire to one amp running rear speakers.

Other power wire running to +side of Cap and from +Cap to the amp. The Cap and both amps are grounded to a distribution block thats wired to the body.

I used a volt meter and both amp are recieving power.

Only my fronts are working.

I have both RCA's running to each amp and tired every rca on each amp thinking i connected to the wrong one.

I've have never in my life been so clueless as to where to start with my car im late for a party.

canada

Did you put the batteries in upside down? I've done that before h:

v6_accord_jerz

Runs off a Solar panel. h:


BTW what the hell is a remote wire? is that why my aren't working? I think im gonna cry in about 2 mins. h:

I Killed Tupac

check for bad RCAs, switch them around, check your on-amp fuses, check your fader

v6_accord_jerz

I checked the amp fuses and they're fine. Fader is set for all. RCA are brand new (bought 2 of them).

Im using the same sound system i pulled from my Accord and into the teg. It came with the accord so I remember how it was put on. On my capacitor (power acoustik) the blue LED indicator lights are on and when they were in my old car i just remember the voltage being shown and not these blue lights. What would cause this? something wired wrong?

I Killed Tupac

i would try bypassing the cap to see if it went bad, it can happen, especially if charged wrong. I've had new RCAs go bad too :dunno:

v6_accord_jerz

Ok this is what i just figured out.

Checked both fuses on amps and they're good. Used a volt meter and there were 14V at each terminal on each amp when the car was running.

Now i remembe that each amp had a light (LED) when it was on but they're off as if they're not recieving any power or not connected.

How could they both be getting power but not be on???

when the car is off the cap reads 12.6 and with the car on its at 14..........at both terminals of the amps read 14V too and maybe they have overload protection because their suppose to only get 12v. why would they get 14 though?

I Killed Tupac

the remote turn on wire is either not working or not connected or has a blown fuse. It's the tiny purple wire that sends the turn on/off signal to the amps from the head unit. amps get power at the terminals, but don't actually turn on.

Car batteries are 12v, but when the car is running, it's being generated by the alternator. It doesn't really matter.

v6_accord_jerz

if i recall when i removed the set up from old car there were no remote wires install and one amp doesn't even have a remote wire connection.

I Killed Tupac

It's got to somewhere :dunno: That's the only way the amp knows to turn on and off, since power is constantly connected to it via direct battery cable. It will say "remote" or "12v+" and have smaller connection.