Honestly, Spoon cams are pretty lame. Besides, rather than go by what you heard from a buddy about what RPM the cams peak at, get the car on a dyno and find out for real.

 

spoon cams are lame..thats a first..im not going by what a "buddy" of mine told me..im going off several websites..including Spoons own site..the car hasnt been on the dyno yet..because there are still some things that need to be fixed and or corrected before wasting $$ on a dyno...i have never heard of a single product from Spoon being "lame" or not worth the money...but maybe you can write Spoon and express your views seeing how you seem to know so much about them...lol..thanks for all the input

 

Most Spoon stuff is overpriced and easily outperformed by more inexpensive offerings. $1200 for an LSD when a Kaaz can be had for $800? How bout $550 for a 70mm throttle when you can get one from Erick's Racing for $400? $1800 for a pair of freakin brake calipers?!

Aside from any value judgements on the overall brand, you've misread the product description in detemining that these cams make power up to 9000 RPM. To quote:

"Factory B16A/B18C1 valve springs cam handle up to 8,300rpm, while the use of aftermarket springs can handle revs in excess of 9,000rpm."

This does NOT mean that the power peak of a motor using these cams will be at 9000 RPM. It means that aftermarket valve springs are capable of being revved to 9000 with the amount of valve lift created by these cams.

Bottom line, put it on the dyno and figure out where the power peaks.

Oh, and about the original question of getting this chip...don't bother. Have something reprogrammed by Locash Racing where you know what exactly is being modified, instead of some eBay special that's probably some kinda pirated wannabe-Mugen program that disregards things like sensors and error codes.

 

Nuff said.

 

:jawdrop:

 

R/S ratio is nothing more than a fall-out number, has nothing to do with engine stresses, only the amount of friction that will be developed between the piston and the cylinder. As long as the rod isn't so short that the crank tries to push it through the cylinder at anything over 1000 RPM, you should be fine.

All in all, R/S ratio is a nice figure to keep track of, but isn't something to worry about. It is not a measure of potential power development, nor is it an absolute measure of how much stress the rod will see, it is just a ratio someone figured out you can get by measuring two items in the engine's structure.

For revability of an engine, the more important items to look at in the lower end are rod bolt strengths, tensile and compression strength of the rods, weight and peak speed of the pistons, and THEN look at the casting strength of the pistons along with the R/S ratio. By the time you really need to worry about that last bit though, chances are you will be floating valves too much to rev much higher anyways...

 

can't a b16a rev up to around 9300 rpm's?

 

I didnt mean that the R/S ratio has a big role in the revability of the engine. It does have a roll though, the lower R/S ratio of the GSR and ITR is why honda gave them block girdles from the factory. R/S ratio does contribute to the overall stability of an engine at high revs. It is a small and no doubt negligible point, but it does contribute in a small way. The well balanced nature of the b16 is what really makes it a good candidate for high revs. I was merely using it as a way to show how well the engine was designed in factory form.

 

well..no worries about reving the engine anymore...the car is probably gonna be totalled after he hit a car that pulled in front of him...the radiator now sits below the hood support..that now rests on the valve cover...which is sitting with the engine in a not so straight position in the engine bay....and..the fenders, hood and bumper are no longer recognizeable... gawd damn idiot drivers...well thanks for all the info..a new project...mostlikely an ITR build up is in the works...hehe

 

LOL... I have. *cough* Oil filler cap $40.80 *cough*