Car Wash
Tech in Training
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Carmichael
Originally Posted by honura
Then 3-4 days later everything is dirty again! Ahhhh I hate when my car dirty!
I eat plastic.
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 15,177
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
I like NXT wash.
And as I'm reading this: don't use a chamois to dry you car. There is absolutely no nap to a chamois--synthetic or natural. This means any dust that gets onto the car between a final rinse and drying..well, is being rubbed directly into the paint. Use a 100% cotton towel, or invest in some microfibers.
Doing this will reduce drying time:
Notice: I took the nozel off of the hose for a final rinse. The stream of water causes the water to sheet. What are you left with?
A few beads here and there, and there's a very thin layer of water that just needs to be wiped.
For reference, this is a waffle weave, it probably takes up a third of the hood, didn't get pictures of it in full.
Then you'll want to clay. Want a reason?
You do not need a buffer, and I do not recommend somebody that is going to polish their car once or twice a year buy one. It's a time saver, an labor saver, but it's certainly not a necessity as a Porter Cable will run you $120 + $45 for 6 pads.
I certainly, as was recommended to you, to NOT use a rotary polisher. Random orbitals, if you can give out the money for the previously mentioned Porter Cable 7424 would handle 90% of what you will encounter. It would certainly make you happy. You wouldn't have to worry about burning the paint. I only break out a rotary for very few vehicles. It's a pain--because I have to follow up with the porter cable and a lighter polish after, anyway.
Then, hm. If you can find it, use Meguiars #9 swirl mark remover. Apply with a terry towel, work back and forth (for the love of baby jesus, don't use small circles), work until it is almost clear, then wipe immediately. Follow up with non cleaning wax (meguiars #16-super reflective, glossy, NXT-super reflective, somewhat plasticky looking, meguiars #26, warm reflections, warm shine).
You do not have to let wax "dry" Wipe it off panel per panel--this will save you effort. Especially many paste waxes--they dry very hard.
More product isn't always best. Infact, I'd use just enough to spread a 3'x3' area, but not excess. Why? You want to break down these abrassives, with more product you are creating more work for yourself. Find the amount of product good for the job--you can always add more. The exception is when you are compounding out wetsanding marks and such--but you're not doing that so don't worry about it.
Windows? Stoners invisible glass is the best I have found. Use horizontal strokes on one side and vertical on the other side. This way you will know which side is streaking.
Of course, before you dress the tires you're going to want to clean them and the wheels. Eagle One has a good line of wheel cleaner, even one for tires and wheels. Really, any red/purple degreaser will work well slightly diluted. Spray on and scrub a bit. Rinse off. Tire dressing wise? I personally like Pooyboys Bold 'n Bright for shiney tires, and Poorboys Natural Look for a satin look. Meguiars has a Natural Shine that won't make them bling bling, but will give them a nice shine.
I really don't know what else
Let me know if you have any questions.
Further knowledge and stores.
http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...Auc+index.html
http://www.autopia.org
http://www.pakshak.com
http://www.autogeek.net
And as I'm reading this: don't use a chamois to dry you car. There is absolutely no nap to a chamois--synthetic or natural. This means any dust that gets onto the car between a final rinse and drying..well, is being rubbed directly into the paint. Use a 100% cotton towel, or invest in some microfibers.
Doing this will reduce drying time:
Notice: I took the nozel off of the hose for a final rinse. The stream of water causes the water to sheet. What are you left with?
A few beads here and there, and there's a very thin layer of water that just needs to be wiped.
For reference, this is a waffle weave, it probably takes up a third of the hood, didn't get pictures of it in full.
Then you'll want to clay. Want a reason?
You do not need a buffer, and I do not recommend somebody that is going to polish their car once or twice a year buy one. It's a time saver, an labor saver, but it's certainly not a necessity as a Porter Cable will run you $120 + $45 for 6 pads.
I certainly, as was recommended to you, to NOT use a rotary polisher. Random orbitals, if you can give out the money for the previously mentioned Porter Cable 7424 would handle 90% of what you will encounter. It would certainly make you happy. You wouldn't have to worry about burning the paint. I only break out a rotary for very few vehicles. It's a pain--because I have to follow up with the porter cable and a lighter polish after, anyway.
Then, hm. If you can find it, use Meguiars #9 swirl mark remover. Apply with a terry towel, work back and forth (for the love of baby jesus, don't use small circles), work until it is almost clear, then wipe immediately. Follow up with non cleaning wax (meguiars #16-super reflective, glossy, NXT-super reflective, somewhat plasticky looking, meguiars #26, warm reflections, warm shine).
You do not have to let wax "dry" Wipe it off panel per panel--this will save you effort. Especially many paste waxes--they dry very hard. More product isn't always best. Infact, I'd use just enough to spread a 3'x3' area, but not excess. Why? You want to break down these abrassives, with more product you are creating more work for yourself. Find the amount of product good for the job--you can always add more. The exception is when you are compounding out wetsanding marks and such--but you're not doing that so don't worry about it.
Windows? Stoners invisible glass is the best I have found. Use horizontal strokes on one side and vertical on the other side. This way you will know which side is streaking.
Of course, before you dress the tires you're going to want to clean them and the wheels. Eagle One has a good line of wheel cleaner, even one for tires and wheels. Really, any red/purple degreaser will work well slightly diluted. Spray on and scrub a bit. Rinse off. Tire dressing wise? I personally like Pooyboys Bold 'n Bright for shiney tires, and Poorboys Natural Look for a satin look. Meguiars has a Natural Shine that won't make them bling bling, but will give them a nice shine.
I really don't know what else
Let me know if you have any questions.Further knowledge and stores.
http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...Auc+index.html
http://www.autopia.org
http://www.pakshak.com
http://www.autogeek.net
cgp dc4
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: NA
I just did that to my car the other day. I washed it with Turtle Wax car wash. Vaccumed all the floor mats and underneath. Then i detailed the interior...I used Armorall vinyl cleaner (the spray kinda sucks it leaves marks) then i cleaned the inner part of the windows...put some leather cleaner all over the seats. Then i went onto waxing with with Mothers. Then i went a little extreme and took off each wheel and cleaned it back and front then sprayed some tire wet then mounted em back on. I love seein the effects after it all, it just looks so damn clean! Oh and the newspaper and windex works great too but special window cleaner is always a plus!
I eat plastic.
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 15,177
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
Originally Posted by axemansean
Windex will eat out tint.
I usually wax all the windows on my car once a year on the outside. Its getting ready for the major summer cleaning.
I usually wax all the windows on my car once a year on the outside. Its getting ready for the major summer cleaning.
Good idea too! Actually, if any of you want a good combo:
Order Clearkote Vanilla Moose (clearkote.com)
and some Meguiars #16
OR! go to specialtymotoring.com and order VM and Poorboys EX-P.
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
I bought a Mr. Clean car wash kit a few months ago. I love that thing to death. I would definitely recomend one of those. The best thing if you don't like to spend time drying. If the filter is fresh (within 6 or 7 uses) it comes out looking great.